tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-84661035638356511912024-03-06T00:24:24.366-08:00窗外站在窗前,凝視流動的風景、精彩的世界......陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/12948817221486910360noreply@blogger.comBlogger32125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-50599788285149633972013-10-27T05:26:00.001-07:002013-10-27T05:26:30.196-07:00活現香港 Walk in Hong Kong<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfi08DYjAFyyy6SAs4s6-1dN2DwLIkKdCHiujfmiUZTSn0N2qFTLqR7wSwTM_2ytQ4JYIC35zpLn_gNAKKhbqAKhLyPd2rPYwYp9T0S5lU1kmnGTxy6t3sIEx3QKFphStURqgTf8TTCc/s1600/Identity-Final-01-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="110" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWfi08DYjAFyyy6SAs4s6-1dN2DwLIkKdCHiujfmiUZTSn0N2qFTLqR7wSwTM_2ytQ4JYIC35zpLn_gNAKKhbqAKhLyPd2rPYwYp9T0S5lU1kmnGTxy6t3sIEx3QKFphStURqgTf8TTCc/s320/Identity-Final-01-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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久違了,因為這幾個月都在忙,為了這個計劃:Walk in Hong Kong 活現香港 <a href="http://www.walkin.hk/"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">www.walkin.hk</span></a><br />
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從來沒有想過創業,因為知道自己並不是一個商業觸覺敏銳的人。但是,確實認為香港需要這樣的新嘗試,讓城內人及來訪者可以感受香港精彩的一面。我們每個星期最少一次行街團,希望大家多多支持!<br />
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等一切上了軌道,會慢慢繼續寫旅遊文章,免得這裡荒廢太久!<br />
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<span class="s1"><a href="http://facebook.com/WalkInHongKong"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">facebook.com/WalkInHongKong</span></a></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;"><a href="http://twitter.com/WalkIn_HK"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">twitter.com/WalkIn_HK</span></a><br /></span></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><a href="http://www.walkin.hk/?page_id=71"><span style="color: #9fc5e8;">Weibo.com/WalkInHongKong</span></a></span></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-59997776369044605512013-07-18T08:15:00.000-07:002013-07-18T08:15:16.288-07:00遠行 ﹣ 細聽文化旅途<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbg-payxX4YlBff8Syq65qoIEUYdOeeS9gjzNR-JtayuEeqVmw097tGnRaaiQ8-pUZCCfzu9qubzQEuNUGoQ54pSWUqWyN7tRuIoXte1yW6xazeveTbBwo6JoJEhBnx5ZbCvR40L3gxys/s1600/1017128_603195783034915_1437504481_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbg-payxX4YlBff8Syq65qoIEUYdOeeS9gjzNR-JtayuEeqVmw097tGnRaaiQ8-pUZCCfzu9qubzQEuNUGoQ54pSWUqWyN7tRuIoXte1yW6xazeveTbBwo6JoJEhBnx5ZbCvR40L3gxys/s320/1017128_603195783034915_1437504481_n.jpg" width="244" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">旅行,應該有其風格及深度。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">在旅途中放慢腳步,用心咀嚼一地文化,體會異地的生活點滴,細味別人大大小小的故事,更勝忘我大吃大喝,或到處走馬看花趕過場。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">布宜諾斯艾利斯五月廣場、北韓三八線、東帝汶聖塔克魯斯墳場、葡萄牙冒險家紀念碑、大英博物館、耶路撒冷、印度泰姬陵……這些景點為旅遊愛好者趨之若騖,但有沒有人認真聽過它們背後的故事?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">匆忙旅途中,會遇上太多人,多數只能擦身而過、萍水相逢,你又有沒有試過找個機會,與地平線上那些人閒聊一番,聽聽他們的經歷與遭遇,與他們同喜同悲?只要細心聆聽,你會漸漸發現,小人物的故事其實同樣精彩,而且有血有肉。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">這本書摒棄平鋪直敍,以嶄新的鋪排方式帶領你重新認識不同國家的獨特景點,讓你有另一番體會、啟發與反思。作者以廣場、墳墓、盜竊、眼淚、龍及河流等不同主題穿針引線,串連在不同地方的旅遊經歷,帶出景致背後獨特的歷史、宗教、民族及文化故事,並記錄旅途中所見所聞、所感所想。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">不斷聽故事,不正是旅行最精彩之處?</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">遠行:細聽文化旅途</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">作者:陳智遠</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">出版日期:2013年7月</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">國際書號:978-988-16846-2-2</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">定價:港幣98元</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">陳智遠</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: lucida grande, tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">熱愛流浪闖天下,踏足過七十八個國家,人生終極目標始終是環遊世界。工作上也像在流浪,遊走於公民社會、學界、傳媒與政府,創辦Roundtable、在大學教授國際政治、客串《頭條新聞》及擔任食物及衞生局政治助理。現時與志同道合創辦社會企業「活現香港」(Walk in Hong Kong),在香港推動文化及知識旅遊,讓人感受不一樣香港。</span></span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-55450664716046132772013-05-06T10:59:00.000-07:002013-05-16T09:58:31.079-07:00走在苦路之上<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDgIv9_guHw4Dbg5O1Gm03fGzzBbCofWFQBHhPJ0txje9OqU0nFAcGtRYSdieNip_Yp_rWw2yD5FjczQtdZzhH-7WRXc5QqKpWY63VwbIQ5jWoj6LzGmOkU3h2EgPuCTmcVJWzLUr5No/s1600/IMG_1598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEDgIv9_guHw4Dbg5O1Gm03fGzzBbCofWFQBHhPJ0txje9OqU0nFAcGtRYSdieNip_Yp_rWw2yD5FjczQtdZzhH-7WRXc5QqKpWY63VwbIQ5jWoj6LzGmOkU3h2EgPuCTmcVJWzLUr5No/s320/IMG_1598.JPG" width="213" /></span></a><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Via Dolorosa, Jerusalem, Israel)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">人的一生中,總要踏足一次耶路撒冷。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這個四千多年的古城,同時是猶太教、基督教和伊斯蘭教三大宗教的發源地,這本身就意味著多麼沉重的歷史印記。登上中央廣場旁的高地,眼前的金頂清真寺是先知穆罕默德「登天」之地;穿過迴廊下山,一轉彎就到了哭牆,即是猶太人視為最神聖的崇拜地;離開中心廣場,穿過迂迴小巷,不一會就會到達聖墓教堂,即是耶穌被釘死十字架及被埋葬之地。只需要一個朝早,就可以穿梭宗教,每步足印之下,就是歷史。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">自己無法想像,究竟耶路撒冷在大衞王與所羅門王時是如何輝煌,三千年前,這裡是個聲威震四方的名城。可惜,及後猶太國遭滅亡,古城輾轉落入巴比倫、波斯、希臘等帝國手中,更在公元七十年被羅馬軍摧毀,猶太人也從此失去家園,流離失所。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在希伯來文中,耶路撒冷是「和平之城」,可是這裡從不和平,古城在歷史上就曾被攻陷或損毀十八次,現時的舊城是土耳其人所建,屹立了足足五百年,算是比較長的時間。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">年少時茅塞未開,雖受耶穌會教育,對聖經道理卻沒有甚麼大頓悟,但在懞懂之間,耶穌被釘十字架的故事卻深印在記憶中;直到人大了,仍舊懞懞懂懂,但腳踏在苦路上,如此近距離地重溫這個聖經故事,又是另一番體會。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">就在這條迂迴的白石路,當年耶穌頭戴荊環痛苦前行,十字架與世人的罪同樣沉重。由被宣判處死走到受刑之小山崗,耶穌跌倒了三次,遇見母親瑪利亞,接受西門背十字架之助,主動安慰沿途飲泣的婦女,最終被釘在十字架上,隨後被埋葬在現的為聖墓教堂的位置。每一塊米白色磚石,都載有宗教的記憶,穿過小街窄巷,每一段苦路上的故事,似曾相識,卻又讓人有些新領悟。而宗教與當地生活已緊緊相扣,遊人回顧聖經章節,同時也是走進當地人的生活,無分宗教界線 –苦路的十四個站,差不多一半其實是位處現時的伊斯蘭區域。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">耶穌被釘死十字架,天父寬恕世人的罪,但這沒有化解後世猶太子民在世界的仇怨紛爭。以色列是個頗難理解的民族,他們的祖先背負亡國屈辱,一千多年來流離失所,也經歷被種族清洗的歷史悲劇。直至二戰結束,在英國的協助之下,以色列人重新建立自己的國家。猶太人充滿智慧,科學成就超卓(他們擁有最多的諾貝爾獎得獎者),也懂得營商及累積財富(美國的億萬富豪有一半就是猶太人),重新立國以後,以色列很快便在世界舞台上站穩陣腳。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">但是,面對巴勒斯坦,以色列異常強硬,也恃著美國的撐腰,對約旦河西岸進行赤裸裸的殖民及壓迫,受害者的身份,轉眼變成國際社會眼中的高壓強權分子。巴勒斯坦也毫不客氣,以恐怖襲擊還以顏色,以牙還牙的邏輯,令仇恨不斷積累,以巴衝突沒完沒了。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">另一邊廂,以色列被伊斯蘭國家包圍,與周邊國家陷入持續的對立與衝突之中,死結重重,沒有人可以解開 – 而那是多次聲言要令自己國家在世界地圖上消失的鄰居。而一如其他政治家慣用的技倆,當自己國家越受外來威脅,政治領導只要不斷告訴國民外侮當前,任何反戰行為都是危害國家安全,強硬的軍事政策自然可以長驅直進,永遠湊效 – 當然,犧牲的往往就是和平與化解矛盾的機會。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">內外夾攻之下,在日常生活層面已可以感受到以色列人的不安。無論進入車站、超市,任何人都要經過嚴密的保安檢查,每個人都可能是恐怖分子,每分每秒都可能面對襲擊,不安感全面融入生活。大家活在威脅之中,就好像死神一樣,大家知道一定會來臨,卻不知何時、何地,慢慢也麻目了,卻又總會偶而感到惶惑、懼怕。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在聖墓教堂入口中央,放著一塊花崗岩石,那是耶穌死後短暫安放其屍體之之地。當時屍體按猶太人傳統用麻布包裹全身然後安葬,長方形大石上滲滿沉香與瑪利亞的淚水。到了今天,到訪的信徒都會蜂擁而上,觸碰聖石,深受基督的大愛。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">但是,若果耶穌被釘十字架是為救贖世人的罪,為何處身古城的人仍然糾纏在民族與政治仇怨之中,並且越來越泥足深陷?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這一點,遊子走到苦路上最後一站,仍然想不透。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個十字架的故事,三)</span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-69504500557611267402013-04-22T18:01:00.001-07:002013-04-24T22:43:12.727-07:00穿過穹頂的那束光<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOw13wqZw37MHod7b79A-FH4zrwkNOkeFOnLNuSDgvCe1HjNr59s8bjn5rjMeuadL9Br45sNa88PU_YfUP4s90vI9X4DChUzTXbBsvxIleNwoIK7LJZQg8P7Cx76EF0MShquMrWcUjeCw/s1600/IMG_3183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOw13wqZw37MHod7b79A-FH4zrwkNOkeFOnLNuSDgvCe1HjNr59s8bjn5rjMeuadL9Br45sNa88PU_YfUP4s90vI9X4DChUzTXbBsvxIleNwoIK7LJZQg8P7Cx76EF0MShquMrWcUjeCw/s320/IMG_3183.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Mayr Tachar, Echmiadzin, Armenia) </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">星期天的亞美尼亞,真的不一樣。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這個處身高加索山脈的小國,一般人認識並不多。當然,只要稍為翻查歷史,就會知道其實它是全世界第一個信奉基督教的國家。亞美尼亞使徒教會(Armenian Apostolic Church)在世界的地位舉足輕重,它已屹立二千年,源遠流長,本身獨立於羅馬天主教與東正教,宗教地位崇高,在世界各地亦可以找到分支。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">選擇在亞美尼亞待一個星期天,朝早便動身出發到訪使徒教會的發源地埃奇米阿津(Echmiadzin)。一踏進教堂區域,宗教氛圍立即籠罩及感染所有人。無論男女老幼,臉上都只有一個表情,或曰敬奉,或曰感恩,或曰虔信。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在教堂區域當然豎起不少十字架石(Khachkars)。這些石碑是亞美尼亞宗教精神最細緻的體現,既是紀念及膜拜之物,也是連繫人世和聖靈的媒介。單在亞美尼亞之內,就有大約五萬座這裡的十字架石,上面刻上不同裝飾圖案,雕琢精緻驚為天人,而且沒有一座是相同。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">豎立十字架石的原因也層出不窮,可能為了節慶、禮拜、出征或家庭喜事。這些石碑本身就是藝術的體現,亦是世界趨之若鶩的文化遺產。十字架石被豎立之前,必需經過祝福及抹油封聖的儀式,自此,信徒相信石碑就擁有神聖力量,可以保佑世人、救贖靈魂及喚起對先人的思念。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">十字架石體現亞美尼亞人對宗教的追求,而宗教的力量亦令這個民族就算飽受劫難,仍然倖存在小亞細亞的狹縫。處身東與西、歐與亞之間,地理位置注定阿美尼亞要連番飽受被吞併之苦 – 這裡曾經向波斯、羅馬、拜占庭稱臣,到了近代,亞美尼亞輾轉依附沙俄,卻萬料不到因此令自己陷入瀕臨撕裂的境地,更招致在第一次世界大戰期間被土耳其殺害和驅趕(種族屠殺之說,至今雙方仍各執一詞)。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">阿美利亞最終亦難逃成為蘇聯加盟共和國,卻不見得有任何好處,共產統治留下烙印至今,苦痛居多 - 當年正正是蘇聯把阿美尼亞視為神聖的亞拉拉山拱手讓給土耳其,成為這個民族永遠的痛。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">讀到美籍亞美尼亞裔作家William Saroyan的一段話,至今難忘:「來吧,看你有何能耐消滅亞美尼亞人!驅趕他們到無水無糧的沙漠,燒毀他們的家園和教堂。然後,看看他們是否就此不再大笑,不再吟唱,不再祈禱。讓亞美尼亞人其中兩個人在世界任何角落相逢,你會看到他們如何重建一個新的亞美尼亞。」</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">是的,只要兩個人相逢,就可以重建一個國家 - 那是多麼深刻的豪情壯語,宣示最剛烈的民族性格。當自己接觸多了這裡的歷史曲折,我慢慢覺得,置身城內各處的十字架石,跟亞美尼亞人非常相似,他們固然都有其獨特的個性,但卻同時呈現頗一致的民族性格:忠於過去,堅守信仰,並以宗教賦予的力量,應付蒼天降下的種種劫難,屹立至今。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在教堂內,當地人都對這個香港人感到好奇,紛紛要求合照,民族之間的隔膜,轉眼間就消弭。禮拜開始,在禱告聲中,信徒逐一親吻十字架,接受上主的保佑。陽光穿過教堂頂部的窗,凝聚成一束白光,照在禮台上。眾人歌唱,禱告聲在教堂內迴盪。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">那一刻,只要是人就會被觸動,無分宗教、民族。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個十字架的故事,二)</span><br />
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-88515379661575883102013-04-16T09:44:00.001-07:002013-04-16T22:47:58.862-07:00微風中,十字架在響<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMuHqgIjSse7iHN7o9_8her7UrP4dOc4Va1PHgDYDhPIBEjRyyiimT1OFf0JRtJzE6p7yXwPocJxddUDWHrpeWnZLGz1gBxhx1OSWgN2sfF-WCToLxtgGbpZgrhSirnt7mQQpj9pNybuM/s1600/IMG_0250.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMuHqgIjSse7iHN7o9_8her7UrP4dOc4Va1PHgDYDhPIBEjRyyiimT1OFf0JRtJzE6p7yXwPocJxddUDWHrpeWnZLGz1gBxhx1OSWgN2sfF-WCToLxtgGbpZgrhSirnt7mQQpj9pNybuM/s320/IMG_0250.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Hill of Crosses, Siauliai, Lithuania)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">蔚藍天空下,太陽銀光從雲邊滲出。微風飄拂吹過,木的碰撞聲、金屬的叮噹聲,配合得像交響樂一樣。置身在十字迷宮之中,那份神聖的氛圍,筆墨無法形容,一切盡在不言中。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這裡是一個由十萬個形狀、大小不同的十字架所構成的山丘,經年累月,十字架山就像擁有生命一樣,自我生長、伸延。十字架上刻著不同名字、年份,層層疊疊,相互交落,佔據視線每一角落。有些十字架更高達數米,在遠方亦能見到陣勢。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這個被列入世界文化遺產的地方,位處立陶宛中部,一處經常被忽略的國度。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">立陶宛曾是中世紀洲面積最大的王國,雄霸歐洲東北。可惜,如同其他被夾在大帝國之間的民族國家一樣,立陶宛的歷史路走得特別顛簸。這個民族及後被幾個帝國相繼吞併,最後納入俄國版圖之中。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">十字架是宗教力量的象徵,十字架山更與立陶宛的興衰起落結下不解之緣。十字架山的起源,其中一個說法正是由於立陶宛人在十九世紀中起義對抗俄國沙皇,可惜最終事敗,家屬未能尋回殉道者的屍首,因此在這被視為神聖之地的小山崗豎起一個又一個十字架,以紀念英靈亡魂。直至第一次世界大戰之後,立陶宛迎來短暫的獨立,立陶宛人又蜂擁而至,十字架悽悽而立,以紀念在戰事中陣亡的親友。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">可惜,獨立是短暫的,二次大戰以後,世界政治形勢急轉,波羅的海三國「被加盟」成為蘇聯一部份,經歷數十年的鐡幕統治。蘇共統治否定宗教,更不容加盟國彰顯其民族性,因此也極力壓抑當地天主教勢力,十字架山自然成為眼中釘。偏偏在當時,大量立陶宛人被流放到西伯利亞,家人朋友無法扭轉命運,唯有跟隨舊俗,繼續在這片土地豎起十字架,向遠方送上祝福及思念,也向當地政權作出無聲抗議。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">蘇聯曾經三次大舉移走十字架,推土機駛到山崗上大肆破壞,所用理由層出不窮:國家機關人員先認為不少十字架沒有藝術價值,有礙觀瞻,理應拆除;之後他們指國家資源匱乏,因此需要移走十字架,回收珍貴的木材及金屬;然後,他們指山崗衞生環境惡劣容易滋生病疫,因此國家特務機關人員把十字架山圍封並派人把關,外人不准進入,更有計劃找時機把整片土地全面淹浸。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,有些事情是越禁越烈的。當局每次移走十字架後,第二天新的十字架又神奇地出現。這當然是附近居民做的好事,而十字架再不只是宗教的象徵,更有其政治面向:一個個十字架,蘊含當地人的反抗精神,向壓迫宗教堅實而沉默地說不,宣示對抗外來高壓統治的心志,決定與蘇聯政權周旋到底。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">到了蘇聯解體,立陶宛重新立國,得以重生。十字架山也得以重見天日,繼續自我「成長」,並成為立陶宛重要的歷史地標。每一個十字架,都蘊含著一個故事,串連起來,就組成一個對抗外來壓迫的民族印記。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">偶而見到耶穌受難的雕像,也與立陶宛人堅韌無比的精神相呼應。究竟是甚麼令這個民族擁有如此堅定的信念,讓他們捱過時光的拔河、歷史的劫難?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">我掛上一個小十字架,祝福這片土地、這個國家。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在微風中,十字架叮叮在響。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個十字架的故事,一)</span><br />
陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-42237382931197286762013-04-07T20:54:00.000-07:002013-04-12T06:26:39.338-07:00哥倫布的「亞洲夢」<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocEUkPI9qB8LrxaC4TeWU19caErJM9ioPacoGNpMnUpWDMYnFWHqEA8fdLPjGKMvyb-de81Wz7FXtzGz3_OiYs4pw3gJ4fS7ZkN8vxJrDJ7zgXV40DQfOtkEgKq-kLlXWDFpNpLyVPwQ/s1600/Columbus.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjocEUkPI9qB8LrxaC4TeWU19caErJM9ioPacoGNpMnUpWDMYnFWHqEA8fdLPjGKMvyb-de81Wz7FXtzGz3_OiYs4pw3gJ4fS7ZkN8vxJrDJ7zgXV40DQfOtkEgKq-kLlXWDFpNpLyVPwQ/s320/Columbus.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Monument to the Discoveries, Lisbon, Portugal)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">喜歡望海,因為海洋充滿故事。一片汪洋,曾經讓無數航海家傾注熱情、賭博生命,倘佯在內,過著流浪的宿命。每個海岸均有其獨特故事,說也說不完。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">葡萄牙里斯本的海岸線,更加值得書寫。五百多年前,多少航海家在此出發,帶著冒險精神,毅然飄洋過海,只為一個信念,就是遠方有未知的新大陸,蘊藏無盡的財富與機遇。</span>如是者,人類<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">開創了改變歷史的大航海年代,那</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">座沿海而建的紀念碑,就是紀念一眾</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">葡萄牙的冒險家。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在眾多人像雕塑中,卻獨欠一名曾在葡萄牙駐足良久的大航海家:哥倫布。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哥倫布的缺席,其實是可以理解的,因為儘管他曾與葡萄牙結下不解緣,但他的成長與成名,都不在這塊土地。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哥倫布在熱那亞出世,偶像是馬可孛羅,嚮往流浪冒險的基因,也是在意大利孕育的。熱那亞是船航繁密的口岸,也是歐洲繪製地圖的中心,兩者給合,就是孕育航海家的上乘土壤。哥倫布在童年時已經熱愛跟隨船隻出航。1476年,他跟隨一艘船出發去英國,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">不幸</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">途中遇上海難,船隻沉沒但他卻奇蹟獲救,保住性命。這次奇遇也許是上天旨意,要他捱過這一劫,並在以後的人生完全改寫世界歷史。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">長大後,哥倫布娶了葡萄牙籍妻子,也遷到這沿海王國居住。他心中有一個「亞洲夢」- 當時歐洲向東航海路線已經打通,但主流想法仍是「地球是平的」。哥倫布卻堅信「地球是圓的」,只要「一路向西」,船隻理應也可以到達亞洲。</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">他努力遊說葡萄牙國王資助西航冒險,但就與其他走在時代前端的先行者一樣,都是碰到「別人笑我太瘋顛,我笑他人看不穿」的窘困,其他人對這個「亞洲夢」一笑置之,認為只是瘋子的一派胡言,船隻一路向西,只會到達地球邊緣,跌下無盡的深淵,永不翻身。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">遊說葡萄牙國王及貴族失敗,哥倫布輾轉到了熱那亞、威尼斯與英國,仍然不果。最後他到了西班牙,幾經轉折之下,終於成功說服伊薩貝拉女王(Isabella)和培雷茲主教(Juan Perez),西航計劃終於成行。那年,哥倫布已經四十六歲,妻子已病逝,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">「亞洲夢」卻從沒更改。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1492年8月,哥倫布率領三艘船艦,一直向西航行,兩個月只見茫茫大海,沒有任何陸地踪影,船員也開始鼓燥。直至他們在海面上見到</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">浮動的</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">蘆葦,知道新大陸不遠矣,第一個島嶼也慢慢</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">出現</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在視線內</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">。船員踏上這個島,感覺像被上主救贖一樣,因此把它命名為「聖薩爾瓦多島」(San Salvador),即是「救世主」的意義。哥倫布相信他已登陸印度西部,因此把那一帶島嶼冠上「西印度群島」之名 – 那是今天的巴哈馬群島,位處</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">加勃比海</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">。及後,哥倫布踏足古巴與海地,並在海地建立了第一個殖民地。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">回程時,他們因天氣惡劣而被迫在里斯本泊岸,這是他航行歷險中唯一在葡萄牙停留之時。之後船隊凱旋回歸西班牙,發現新大陸的消息不脛而走,傳遍歐洲。國王也兌現承諾,把哥倫布封為殖民地總督,並將獲得</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">十分之一來自</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">新大陸的財富。而首航成功後,哥倫布一心繼續探索「亞洲」,及後三次航程,他先後發現牙買加、南美北岸、中美洲一帶,當然只見美洲土著,沒有碰見任何亞洲人,更遑論找到馬可孛羅所形容「黃金遍地、香料盈野」的亞洲土地。</span><br />
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由於在<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">美洲一帶未見大量金銀財富,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哥倫布</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">也漸漸失去西班牙國王的信任,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">最後更被剝奪總督身份,喪失一切優待。最後一次航行,他一心為了尋找通往印度洋的馬六甲海峽,結果僅到達中美洲一帶,探險以失敗告終,哥倫布返回西班牙,懷著飄渺「亞洲夢」,鬱鬱而終。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,可能哥倫布至死也不會知道,自己</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當天</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">誤打誤撞踏足美洲,徹底改變人類歷史,影響至今 - 西班牙躍升成為最強盛的殖民帝國,西歐各國也找到開闢美洲的大門,大舉侵略與搜刮當地資源,另一邊廂,美洲人陷入黑暗殖民統治,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">數百年</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">飽受</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">屈辱、屠殺甚至滅族之痛。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哥倫布的「亞洲夢」,最終由麥哲倫完成。當</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">他在菲律賓被殺後,其船員繼續航行,最終經過好望角,環繞地球一圈,證明地球真是圓的(那又是另一段可歌可泣的故事)。而儘管在所有美洲國家都有以哥倫布命名的</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">地方</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,但諷刺的是,美洲大陸卻是以一位意大利人命名 – 這位</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">名為亞美利哥的</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">學者最後證實,哥倫布所踏足的並非亞洲大陸,而是在當時不為歐洲人所知的新國度。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哥倫布到臨終時,「亞洲夢」還未破滅。也許這是上天開的玩笑,但想深一層,難得糊塗,不是更好嗎?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個流浪的故事,三)</span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-65951976399629227992013-04-07T20:26:00.000-07:002013-04-11T04:02:24.667-07:00流浪者的「天性」<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Adz4NAW0nPfJqscr3u6NgfBFi7fs1uA_Esu4Kk1KDny1VG1uYaLPp9XnWu972g5KAVo-J_KxqqlIuzEPqTZigOA_AFiTct5cF2fabT-vdheX178I9T7tpj4635mZk3ewQRBQfZEre6Q/s1600/IMG_0198.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" mta="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Adz4NAW0nPfJqscr3u6NgfBFi7fs1uA_Esu4Kk1KDny1VG1uYaLPp9XnWu972g5KAVo-J_KxqqlIuzEPqTZigOA_AFiTct5cF2fabT-vdheX178I9T7tpj4635mZk3ewQRBQfZEre6Q/s320/IMG_0198.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Siq, Petra, Jordan)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">約旦佩特拉(Petra)是處讓人神往之地。走在峭壁之間的狹縫,越過彎曲的蛇道(siq),高約四十米的神殿大門活現眼前,莊嚴宏偉</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">。</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這裡縱然沒有《奪寶奇兵》中的聖杯,但紅色岩石在朝陽中閃耀,讓人目瞪口呆。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">由</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">七彩色組成的</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">山丘形態奇特,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">只要陽光角度適中,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">遠眺</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">起伏山谷,就像見到一條彩色絲帶伸延至遠方,目不暇給。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">決定偏離主流路線,踏上崎嶇山路,尋找某些較偏遠的景點,奈何中午時份炎陽高照,拖著受水土不服煎熬而疲憊不堪的身軀,勉強捱過蜿蜒上坡路。一直暗罵自己何解自討苦吃,直至找到一小石壁,在陰影下稍作休息。隔鄰一位婦人穿著班駁衣裙,帶著幾個小孩子,在石壁下的小空間攤開彩色布,開了火爐煮茶,小孩則用手扒食,同時好奇地望著這位落難遊人,天真地笑。那位婦人見我疲累,用手勢問我要否喝口茶。儘管語言不通,但感覺非常窩心。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這就是我與傳說中的貝都人(Bedouin)最近距離的接觸。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">貝都人其實是個統稱,偏及中東及阿拉伯半島各地,傳統就是過著逐水草而居的生活,一生一世都在荒漠中遷徙,「安居樂業」不是他們那杯茶。貝都人長遠而來就是「無政府主義」的信徒,不服從部落傳統以外任何法規制度,甚至連國界也不放在眼內。(當然,到了近代他們也始終要妥協,服膺申請國籍的規定,但據說很多老婦基於傳統忌諱拒絕拍照,所以他們都獲豁免不用在護照上貼上近照。)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在荒野中,他們既畜牧也狩獵,有些部落更擅於洗劫沙漠上的商旅。嚮往自由的血在流,那份「失自由毋寧死」的遺傳基因,主宰著這個民族的生活與生存。都市人往往視搬屋為一大苦差,但對他們來說,遷居卻是一種生活習慣,也是生活樂趣。沙漠無邊,天地任我行,流浪基因稍一作祟,他們便會立即拆下帳棚,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">動身</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">找個喜歡的地點,新的「家」不消一會又再出現。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">以天地為家,太陽星辰告知時間軌跡,觀星聽風就知天氣變幻,人</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">完全擺脫都市的束縛;</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">但要每天餐風飲露、奔走風塵,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在天地蒼茫之中</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">承受荒漠之苦,以及因沒有農耕經濟而致的貧困境地,就是絕對自由的代價。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,嚴苛環境促就貝都人自成一格的遊牧文化,尤其在傳統醫藥、飼養駱駝、帳篷工藝、荒野求生等各範疇,均蘊含細緻的生存智慧。如此種種,他們沒有文字記綠,只透過口喻一代一代傳承,延續至今。好客之道也是貝都人的民族性格,就算生活再刻苦,有朋自遠方來,他們都會熱情款待,視外賓為自己家人。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,人類學提醒我們,所謂的「民族性」,往往是被建構出來,內容立體</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">多變,太過定格的想像,容易以偏概全</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">。例如不少貝都人其實是從事農耕甚至完全不懂騎駱駝,跟</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">一般人對他們的主流印象大相逕庭</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">而都市化始終徹底影響貝都人的生活。現時汽車已取代駱駝,成為沙漠中最主要交通工具,供水系統伸延到沙漠中,也改變了貝都人的生活模式。再者,貝都人也始終要面對是否融入都市生活這個吸引選擇。就以佩特</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">拉</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">的貝都人為例,現時他們已遷到附近容許居住的區域,過著半定居的生活,而為了讓下一代有機會接受正規教育,他們或多或少也願意選擇在學校附近地域定居,從此落地生根,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">道別</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">遊牧生活。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這回到人類學一個老問題:究竟所謂的「天性」,其實是否只是為了應付外在環境而出現,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">所衍生出的生活模式,在</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">特定時空被不斷重覆,再經過世世代代相傳,好像融入一地人的文化基因。然而,當環境轉變、物換星移,人需要選擇新的生活方式,所謂的「天性」也就自然逐點磨滅、跟隨變化。</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">一切一切,都是為了生存而已。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這個問題,遊子不敢下定論,但我傾向相信,那幾位天真爛漫的孩子身上,仍殘存流浪者的基因,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">而貝都婦人泡製的茶,甘香</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">非常</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,讓遊子回味至今。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個流浪的故事,二)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">註:一般人對貝都人認知不多,印象往往只建基在一些簡單旅遊資訊。幸好,Marguerite van Geldermalsen出版了自傳,為我們打開了一扇窗。這位紐西蘭女子當年來到佩特拉,就與一位貝都男子互相吸引,最後下嫁到那裡並定居下來。在丈夫2002年去世之後,她回到澳洲完成自傳《Married to a Bedouin》,讓世人可以了解這個神秘的族群。據說她現時已回到佩特拉,跟兒子一起經營紀念品專賣攤,可惜這次緣慳一面,沒有碰上。</span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-27898527090075017922013-03-20T10:20:00.002-07:002013-03-20T10:39:59.794-07:00四十年的流浪<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3wLvwakatZ-bQjafIhVdQYqsgExar7JFaS11pkn6rJzEks8RwYPa4fedxiCT0-1ba4QtTaum60WZbHktW1YsE3AEEop0R4g4yYGDfQ3Xbw3TXVXk8PqdvzJ7LKb_MzqotgarCPSJkTg/s1600/Mt+Nebo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" psa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz3wLvwakatZ-bQjafIhVdQYqsgExar7JFaS11pkn6rJzEks8RwYPa4fedxiCT0-1ba4QtTaum60WZbHktW1YsE3AEEop0R4g4yYGDfQ3Xbw3TXVXk8PqdvzJ7LKb_MzqotgarCPSJkTg/s320/Mt+Nebo.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Mount Nebo, Jordan)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">四十年的流浪,究竟是甚麼滋味?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">薄薄煙霞懸掛上空,暮色矇矓。夕陽金光灑在附近山巒,光束照出飄浮微塵,伴著呼呼風聲,在天地穹蒼之中,遠方古城若隱若現,金色尖頂輪廓模糊。站在約旦的尼波山上,向西眺望,那個古城,就是耶路撒冷。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">二千多年前,聖人摩西亦是站在這個山崗上,遙望遠方「應許之地」(Promised Land) 耶路撒冷,知道四十年的旅途終於完結,漫長流浪告一段落。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">聖經中的《出埃及記》,或多或少是個悲劇。當年摩西借用上帝之力,在埃及降下十場災難,最終所有埃及男嬰一夜間死去,法老王無可奈何,唯有允許以色列人離開。摩西因此帶領以色列人走出埃及,開始漫長之旅,追尋遠方的迦南地,即是「流蜜與奶之地」。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這趟旅程註定顛沛流離、充滿劫難。當法老王反悔派兵追捕以色列人,摩西利用權仗把紅海分開,讓跟隨者通過;及後他獨自上西乃山拿取《十誡》,人與上帝正式立約。可惜以色列人反叛及懷疑神的安排,上帝決定要懲罰這一代人,至死也不得進入耶路撒冷 - 「因為你們在尋的曠野,加低斯的米利巴水,在以色列人中沒有尊我為聖,得罪了我。我所賜給以色列人的地,你可以遠遠的觀看,卻不得進去。」</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">這就是一整代以色列人的詛咒,他們只能夠尋尋覓覓,在現今約旦及以色列的荒野上兜兜轉轉,一生都在流浪,直至衰老與死亡。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">古代的旅行,本就是宿命之旅。出發之時,沒有地圖指引,沒有道路跟隨,上天不會為你導航,大地不會贈你憐憫。出走不為享樂,而是好像上天給與任務,無論目的是求生、探險、朝聖,路程都是受苦居多,而且福禍難卜、吉凶難料。流離顛沛變成生命的常態,旅人也有心理準備,可能一生一世都在路途上,永遠無家。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">以色列人沿途開枝散葉,生兒育女,四十年後,摩西終於到達尼波山。當在這裡看到遠方的耶路撒冷,摩西心知,這將會是他與應許之地最近的距離,上一代的以色列人多已魂歸天國,流浪的任務也可以交託給下一代的約書亞。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">四十年的無根生活,就在這裡告終,摩西也留在山崗上,悄然等待生命完結,而直至今日,也沒有人知道他究竟身葬尼波山那一處。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">站在尼波山上,一想到這個故事,那份神傷確實難以言喻。夕陽徐徐落下,死海沒入黑影之中,遠方聖城點點燈火亮起。帶著唏噓,遊子回頭繼續上路,而這趟旅程的終點,正是耶路撒冷。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個流浪的故事,一)</span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-6110816477882024662013-02-12T23:11:00.005-08:002013-02-13T22:49:14.890-08:00旅遊經濟巨輪<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivORmqUSgBnRhWtWYq8_xYZHBY54XBFmOu5Rzwt22kUAMLsjvARUQsMwv-oFlpO6L9FXa__EGT43xfJMOpSazuTMXMLNA4eCIabGYg_CM_O1dhtBiN2DXnmxJumf2g2Is5Yq_w9MVrNQc/s1600/IMG_1563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivORmqUSgBnRhWtWYq8_xYZHBY54XBFmOu5Rzwt22kUAMLsjvARUQsMwv-oFlpO6L9FXa__EGT43xfJMOpSazuTMXMLNA4eCIabGYg_CM_O1dhtBiN2DXnmxJumf2g2Is5Yq_w9MVrNQc/s320/IMG_1563.JPG" uea="true" width="240" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> (Damoen Saduak Floating Market, Ratchaburi, Thailand)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">成為世界旅遊熱點,除了能致富,有時亦可能是詛咒。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">異國風情,醉人景緻,透過旅遊業的操作,只要成功勾起外地人對一地文化景觀的想像,誘發獵奇的衝動與渴望,就能夠令該地變成搖錢樹,遊客及錢財滾滾而來。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,一切都是有代價。現代旅遊業吊詭之處,在於它製造旅遊尋幽探秘的渴望,也引進龐大經濟力量,足以根本地改變一地人文生態,舊有文化與脈絡往往被連根拔起。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">因為看到明信片,才決定到訪泰國近郊的丹能莎朵水上市場(Damnoen Saduak Floating Market)。那張明信片中,艇家划著木船,穿梭水鄉,柔光照在河道上,閃爍發亮,水上風情一派悠然。儘管知道這裡早榮登CNN全球十二大徒具虛名景點之一(如果大家有印象的話,我們的星光大道佔龍虎榜更高位置......),也不虞有詐偏向虎山行,一心追尋相片中的水鄉風情。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">結果,當然是中伏。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">其實,泰國水上市集始終是值得一遊,因為那裡正是這東南亞國家最傳統的面貌,體現了氣候及地理位置如果塑造一地獨有的生態。泰國由多條大小河流貫穿,滂沱大雨令河道經常泛濫,發展水路交通因而最正常不過。人民開始在河堤兩岸生活,高架排屋傍水而建,社群因而慢慢出現,水上市集也應運而生。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">木艇是水上市集的核心,它既是交通工具,也是生財工具,更是生活空間。每艘艇就是各家各戶的流動小天地,戴著斗笠的船家穿梭於市集,買賣日常所需,人與人的日常溝通、交流,就在艇中進行。他們一邊划船、一邊烹調、一邊叫賣,展現一心多用的超凡功架,平淡日子就在艇與艇的碰撞中戛然而過。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,若果像丹能莎朵水上市場那麼有幸成為世界旅遊熱點,又是另一回事。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">不是說這裡一無是處,只是就算水鄉外貌依舊,但內裡一切都難免變質,變成只為遊客及外匯服務,容不下傳統水上生活,更遑論那趨之若鶩的「水鄉風情」。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">例如那位司機會把遊人停在距離市集挺遠的碼頭,令遊客不知身在何方,然後跟司機相熟的船家會以流利英語開天殺價,要求貴一倍的開船費而面不改容,當遊客爭辯時又忽然變得不諳英語,大家面面相覷。當人質被送上賊船,小艇駛到市集正中心,狹窄河道早迎來各方木艇,擠到大家動彈不得,最後還看船家功夫,能否在狹縫中驅船突圍而出。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">上岸遊逛市集,當然到處都是遊人,狹小通路弄得水洩不通,攤檔賣的清一色是旅遊紀念品,標價比陸上市集貴一倍。基本上,這個聲稱「傳統」的水上市集,再沒有任何傳統水上市集的社會功能,一心為旅遊業服務。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,若果純粹以旅客身份來觀光及大吃大喝,還是挺滿足的。兩排小艇泊在堤岸,在狹小空間中泡製不同美食,大嬸用心烤香蕉、少女落力叫賣鮮果、婆婆烹調椰汁小糕、大叔兜售椰香雪糕,還有各種外觀讓饕餮之徒口水直流的美點,煎煮烤焗樣樣俱全,琳琅滿目,香氣飄逸。點中食物,船家會將食物盒放到自製的長柄筲箕,然後把柄伸出,讓人一手交錢(把錢放到筲箕中)一手交貨,配上來往小艇的碰撞聲,一切看似混亂,但亂中有序。站在石墩橋上,觀看木艇擠在一起,儘管沒有那張名信片中的恬淡氣氛,這幅畫面也能滿足遊客的一點旅遊想像。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,這個遊人是心存愧色的,因為自己正正參與了這裡的旅遊業經濟操作,或多或少成了「幫兇」。當旅遊業急速擴張,有多少地方,在旅遊經濟巨輪輾過之後,把原有的社區脈絡、本土文化、地區風情及日常生態完全破壞,苟延殘喘的,也不見得能夠穩住陣地。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;">不顧一切發展旅遊經濟,通常都落得殺雞取卵之田地。噢,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">他山之石,何以似曾相識?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個水鄉的故事,三) </span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-14090173101777458122013-02-11T01:31:00.003-08:002013-02-11T02:12:53.181-08:00只能退到是「水鄉」<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMrKHGC1S5T0btwQPZVUV9bEJGLSamj6N-8DeZ4O2gWqsMLS0Xaj0NJr50UVDoRC_uVDjcfXYo0xXffUrnaXmKTasc_W6yZyp2rJND5ZN4ct-V6sSWSCRs3MokNGeHgFO91xb8vrr5BJE/s1600/IMG_8728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMrKHGC1S5T0btwQPZVUV9bEJGLSamj6N-8DeZ4O2gWqsMLS0Xaj0NJr50UVDoRC_uVDjcfXYo0xXffUrnaXmKTasc_W6yZyp2rJND5ZN4ct-V6sSWSCRs3MokNGeHgFO91xb8vrr5BJE/s320/IMG_8728.JPG" uea="true" width="213" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Gondola ride, Venice, Italy)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">還是乾脆承認吧,到訪威尼斯,就是為了消費這裡的「水鄉想像」。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">威尼斯的故事,是讓人唏噓的。由於獨有的地緣位置,這個海岸城市成為中世紀海上貿易的正中心,能夠急速累積財富,進而雄霸一方,也隨著十字軍東征鞏固其政經地位。踏進聞名而久的聖馬可區域,威尼斯共和國的政治、宗教、經濟命脈,就集中在這一帶,不同建築華麗而壯觀,就是要宣示統治階層的權力,岸邊碼頭則是當年威尼斯商人貿易之地。這裡曾經權傾天下,影響遍及世界。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">可惜,隨著葡萄牙及西班牙的冒險家開創十六世紀的大航海時代,拓展出大西洋航海路線,循地中海進行的貿易大減,加上受土耳其人侵略及黑死病的肆虐,威尼斯的沒落趨勢已成,最後拿坡崙揮軍進攻,共和國也告滅亡。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">歷史就是這樣殘酷。威尼斯借天時地利之便,靠商貿及金融起家發跡,卻因為地理環境的限制,以及貴族階層壟斷財富,令到這裡無法走出海上貿易獨大、「產業結構過度單一」的困局。當地緣政治角色告終,城市也無法在歷史演變之中應對新挑戰,唯有黯然走向衰落。他山之石,何以似曾相識?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">威尼斯喪失領導世界的能力,到了今天,只能退到以「水鄉」的姿態出現在世界版圖中。在這方面,威尼斯還是稱職的。走在起伏不平的路上,穿過破落樓房、阡陌河道,橫過石橋,驟見小艇輕盈而過,異國水都風情,內容樣樣齊全。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,除了消費威尼斯的「水鄉想像」,遊人也可以認真感受這個古老城市的點滴。當年威尼斯公爵們把不同階層、種族的人遷徙至不同區域,限制活動自由。北面的Cannaregio,是猶太人隔離區(Ghetto),到了今天還是被遺忘的角落,河道旁的民屋、小橋失修,途人稀少,加上冬天的迷霧,此情此景仍顯得份外滄桑。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">途上也經過不少修道院,至今仍拒絕外人參觀。當年的貴族女子,若不出嫁,便會成為修女,在修道院過著嚴格靈性生活。不少女孩是半推半就選擇修道,進了修道院,才驚覺那裡重門深鎖,她們從此與世隔絕,過著無慾無愛的生活。這種借「聖潔」、「貞節」之名進行的「監牢」生活,沒有因宗教改革的衝擊而改變,反而是變本加厲,修女在內每天如常生活,卻是生不如死。</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />威尼斯當然也有生氣沛然的一面。穿梭大小街道,店鋪掛滿精緻面具,在每年二月的嘉年華會,滿街都是帶著面具的人,大家各自收起臉容,全情cosplay一番。</span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">南部Dorsoduro海岸是散步勝地,內街更是世界現代藝術集中地,千奇百怪、創意橫溢的展品,造就古舊城市的新面貌;樓房外觀雖然殘舊,但不同新潮商店進駐在內,展現潮流時尚,加上河畔無數餐廳及咖啡廳,讓人飲飽食醉。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">世事常變原是永恆,多少古代名城被歷史淘盡完全絕跡,威尼斯卻能夠殘存下來,以另一種形式呈現於世。就是這一點,也該值得慶幸吧?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個水鄉的故事,二)</span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-44605777800829232872013-02-08T20:20:00.002-08:002013-02-08T20:20:53.530-08:00舊瓶新酒水鄉遊<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82CpkarSsFrwA3OZTGrr_U-RZreVpfqdBzDeY29AEXtVTGKqw81GEV19E7McqAPRyIRUBEo_hw1vApiFRm79ll4pN2OgdqYChQhHed1ddgBstcFa2y_OiIgDzTYVSscbPzNTLk6V-9hw/s1600/IMG_2189.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" jea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82CpkarSsFrwA3OZTGrr_U-RZreVpfqdBzDeY29AEXtVTGKqw81GEV19E7McqAPRyIRUBEo_hw1vApiFRm79ll4pN2OgdqYChQhHed1ddgBstcFa2y_OiIgDzTYVSscbPzNTLk6V-9hw/s320/IMG_2189.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Kampong Ayer, Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">水鄉令遊人神往,或多或少是因為大家對城市生活有點厭倦。水上風情,時光倒流,泛舟往還,沒有擁擠人群,沒有璀璨燈火,一切回歸樸素,想像定格在舊時代。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">想真一點,這是多麼落套的觀念、多麼自私的旅遊思維。古舊外觀添上現代內涵,舊瓶新酒有時更能撞出獨得風味。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">由汶萊首都斯里巴加灣市的岸邊,隨意截一輛快艇的士穿梭水上村落 (Kampong Ayer),比起參觀任何地標更加趣味盎然。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">就算現今汶萊家財萬貫,汶萊河一帶依舊見到延綿水屋,三萬多人維持水上生活。那裡一帶原是沼澤,後來陸續有人來此定居,在沼澤地上築起屋子,形成數十個村落,直至汶萊皇朝建立,這裡就此成為國都。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">在那個時代,由於土地還未被開發,在水上建立社區是最自然不過的事。他們把木摏垂直插入河床,再以木板建成樓房的平台,成為房屋的基礎。幾百年來,除了皇宮和一些皇家建築之外,汶萊人基本上就在河岸上建屋,話說五百多年前當年麥哲倫來到東南亞,航海紀綠中記下汶萊水鄉的面貌,跟今天的沒有多大異樣。 </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">木巷木橋縱橫交錯,把水屋連結起來,甚至有街巷之分,據統計木巷木橋加起來就有三十多公里長。在木板上行遊,能夠感受一下南洋人的悠閒生活態度。街坊開著大門,懶洋洋地躺在大廳,又或是三兩知己閒談,士多小店見遊人也只會點頭微笑,不會主動招徠。連小貓也匿藏在樁木之間歇息,被路過遊人腳步一嚇才靈巧地跳出來,毫不懼怕會失足跌入水中。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">汶萊在婆羅洲自成一閣,有其歷史巧合。汶萊身處馬拉版圖之中,因海上貿易而興盛,卻因族群內鬥以及發現石油的關係,落入英國殖民統治,最後獨立成國。殖民政府在1888年上場,上場不久就做了決定,要把城市中心往內陸遷移,因而開發文萊河左岸的陸地,並鼓勵人民搬遷到內陸。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">但水鄉生活已持續數百年,不少人堅持留在水上。受惠於石油財富,當地政府致力推動現代化,水上村莊也不例外。在四十年代,水上房屋的木樁慢慢被水泥取代,屋頂也開始使用鐵皮等金屬材料,令到房屋更耐用,之後政府在區內駁上電力及食水,其他都市設施也陸續在水鄉之中出現:在今天,除了住宅,村落中亦有商店、學校、醫院、銀行、清真寺,甚至是水上蜆殼油站!現時基本上除了要到彼岸工作賺錢之外,任何生活上的需要都能在水上解決,水上社區維持生命力,自成一閣,與陸地城市分庭抗禮。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,都市化是必然的趨勢,難以挽回,水鄉也經常受風災火災威脅。但是,水上人家仍是安於現狀,水鄉風情也因而得以保存。如何既保存舊區文化及人脈,同時推動發展賦與一地新的生命力,是不少城市共同面對的難題。汶萊水上鄉或許為大家留下一些伏筆。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(三個水鄉的故事,一)</span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-89306859039593754922013-02-01T20:57:00.001-08:002013-02-04T11:03:13.405-08:00革命的故事,太難寫<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmhnjVHvZnCH6ZVPAO6WwWnNWbzRaXX_T2ZQ318y9Vc5TDmLHGdErw_caM6Wso7gYl7qmVN4FOrPQMjIKhWUG3mESn8hJFJAo26_UgpjI9zorg0L1QyUozSZO34UpDT_SncFga0MyMLa4/s1600/IMG_5534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmhnjVHvZnCH6ZVPAO6WwWnNWbzRaXX_T2ZQ318y9Vc5TDmLHGdErw_caM6Wso7gYl7qmVN4FOrPQMjIKhWUG3mESn8hJFJAo26_UgpjI9zorg0L1QyUozSZO34UpDT_SncFga0MyMLa4/s320/IMG_5534.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Dolores, Dolores Hidalgo, Mexico)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">革命的故事,永遠難以書寫。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">人類存在的特徵,往往在於一種說「不」的能力,這是沙特說的。人是自由的,做任何事都可以自由選擇,也由於可以對現況說「不」,人才能開創可能更好的事物。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,這份選擇自由是沉重的,因為任何選擇都需要付出代價。要達到這個「真實人生」的境界,人必須建構自己的存在,追尋及守護價值,直至死的那一刻。現實就是充滿枷鎖、壓迫與制肘,向現實說「不」,需要勇氣,需要血汗,需要堅持。自由沉重得令不少人選擇放棄,並不斷麻醉自己,人生就是這樣、世道就是這樣,更遑論拋頭顱、灑熱血,站出來攪革命。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">驟眼看,<span lang="EN-US">Dolores Hidalgo</span>只是個平凡小鎮,沒有亮麗的景點,沒有多姿多采的生活,一切再普通不過。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">但其實波瀾壯闊的墨西哥革命,就在教堂外面的廣場開始。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">二百年前的一個清晨,教堂晨鐘響徹全鎮,召來了附近所有生活困苦的人。當時駐在該鎮的神父伊達爾哥<span lang="EN-US">(Hidalgo)</span>站在教堂門前的階台上,莊嚴地向著群眾宣佈,甚麼國王、甚麼苛稅,在今天再也不存在。「你們願意解放自己嗎?你們願意奪回三百年前被可恨的西班牙人搶去的祖先土地嗎?你們願意擔當真正的愛國者,保衞我們的宗教及權利嗎?」群眾齊聲和應:「獨立萬歲<span lang="EN-US">!</span>」「絞死殖民強盜<span lang="EN-US">!</span>」「殖民政府已死!」<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">叫喊聲此起彼落,群眾下定決心,向蹂躪欺壓印第安人的西班牙殖民政府說不,起來抗爭。「多洛莉絲的號召」<span lang="EN-US">(Grito de Dolores)</span>正式揭開墨西哥革命的序幕,完全改變美洲的歷史,影響至今。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">三百年的殖民統治,令到墨西哥喪失了最純正的文化,但對自身的困境、對解放的憧憬,仍然激起千重浪,一呼百應。伊達爾哥神父的起義以殉道告終,但如同其他革命一樣,群眾的憤怒已過臨界點,形勢便不可逆轉,抗爭持續,經過十一年的轉折,墨西哥人成功驅送了殖民者。<span lang="EN-US">9</span>月<span lang="EN-US">16</span>日,即是教堂鐘聲響起的那天,也就成了墨西哥國慶日。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">革命是最絕對地向現實說「不」,註定要流血及犧牲。是甚麼激起一地人徹底的憤怒?是怎樣促就人對生活苦況及政局完全絕望,就算是九死一生亦要奮力一拼?那份悲憤,再洋灑的文字也是無法準確形容;那份歷史感、使命感,再仔細的歷史研究也是無法完全參悟。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">那個教堂大鐘,到了今天仍在響。但遊人想在革命現場感受那份歷史感,頂多是一廂情願的浪漫想法。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">革命的故事,實在太難書寫。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-72019646883443117122013-01-30T19:01:00.004-08:002013-02-04T11:04:21.592-08:00自作的孽<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMa288XFh4zBaHlpyuJXR5izHK2U7473vjfl1DUzLm3plt4yUwsRhFt6q4G_fF2O8CutRbDT5rMgB7r67GeoIBiLedkdmiiutXzfuKW4x7DNV0NsJISnUe7bbOHkfRrv7pyzbWGOyMdg/s1600/IMG_9990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" ea="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZMa288XFh4zBaHlpyuJXR5izHK2U7473vjfl1DUzLm3plt4yUwsRhFt6q4G_fF2O8CutRbDT5rMgB7r67GeoIBiLedkdmiiutXzfuKW4x7DNV0NsJISnUe7bbOHkfRrv7pyzbWGOyMdg/s320/IMG_9990.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">(Azadi Square, Tehran, Iran)</span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">那個平靜的黃昏,在據說「好危險好危險」的伊朗,我安心地在廣場中踱步。這個被美國套上「邪惡軸心」稱號的國度,一般人正常生活,黃昏時一家大小在廣場上聚餐,有談有笑,孩童嬉戲玩樂,樂得悠閒。不少伊朗人對外來遊客感到好奇,熱情攀談,要求合照,笑聲此起彼落。秋色漸濃,太陽沒入雲端,在夕照之下,那個由二千五百塊大理石築成的自由塔,輪廓更見奇特。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">而就在這裡,阿扎迪廣場<span lang="EN-US">(Azadi Square)</span> ,三十多年前凝聚了革命之星火,直至燎原。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">這或多或少是美國自作的孽。在今天,美國到處高舉民主旗幟,但他們也不得不承認這段不光彩的歷史:中情局曾推翻了多個國家民主選舉產生的政府,因為在他們眼中,任何民主體制都要容得下美國的利益。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">1951</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">年,穆罕默德·摩薩台<span lang="EN-US">(Mohammad Mosaddegh)</span>當選成為首相,高舉當家作主的旗幟,大力推動各項變革,誓要擺脫西方枷鎖。當時,英國操控了伊朗的石油業,摩薩台最大膽的舉措,是提出國有化石油業,直接威脅一眾西方國家的利益,</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">毫不留情面。此舉為摩薩台嬴得成為時代雜誌風雲人物的「江湖地位」,卻無助自己捱過劫難。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">英國多番交涉不果,最後決定與美國聯手,直截了當推翻摩薩台政權。那個到今天外牆仍被塗上反美</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">標語及漫畫</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">的</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">的前美國大使館</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">,裡面地牢便是中情局策劃政變的工作基地。經過多輪轉折,政變成功,帝制復辟,美國擁立了巴列維(Pahlavi)政權。摩薩台被判死緩,最後遭軟禁在家,直至殞亡,伊朗也正式與民主體制告別。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,怨有頭、債有主,若然未報,只是時辰未到。報應之時,在<span lang="EN-US">1979</span>年。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">巴列維甘為西方的傀儡,生活奢華成風,統治卻了無驚喜,連番冒進舉措把國家推進經濟停滯、通貨膨脹的困局,民怨因生活困苦不斷發醇,政府則只能以更高壓手段對待,以及依靠裙帶關係維持政權。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">廣場上的「自由塔」,原為「國王紀念塔」<span lang="EN-US">(King Memorial Tower)</span>,在<span lang="EN-US">1971</span>年落成,二千五百塊產自伊斯法罕的大理石,代表波斯帝國屹立至今的二千五百個年頭,大理石聚合起來,聳立懾人,象徵波斯帝國的復興。巴列維高調慶祝,</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">過程中以上賓格調款待過<span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">百</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">位</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">國家元首,</span></span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">諷刺的是,慶典卻進一步虛耗國庫,令國家更積弱 - 據說</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">埋單計數,慶典就</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">花了一億美元</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">,低下階層卻日益貧困。這個偌大地標,就成功令大眾每天更憎厭現有政權。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">另一邊廂,什葉派領袖霍梅尼崛起,既衝著巴列維政權,更針對背後的「邪惡外國勢力」,勢要為當年政變算算帪。在流亡期間,他不斷鼓吹伊斯蘭復興思想,針對西方文化如何令伊朗社會走向墜落衰敗。之後,政府將伊斯蘭曆法改為波斯曆法,更進一步觸怒了國內回教徒。反對勢力逐步壯大,政府加強鎮壓,原本中立的派系慢慢加入激進反對陣營。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">1978</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">年,反對浪潮已經無法收拾,巴列維一廂情願美國會及時介入,不知當時美國總統卡特對伊政策已陷進退失據境地。踏入<span lang="EN-US">12</span>月,二百萬人聚集在這個廣場,在拱型標誌下振臂高呼,不揪巴列維下台誓不罷休。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">到了1979年<span lang="EN-US">1</span>月<span lang="EN-US">16</span>日,巴列維王朝被推翻,伊斯蘭共和國建立,這裡也被改名為阿扎迪廣場 <span lang="EN-US">– Azadi</span>在波斯語就是「自由」、「解放」的意思。標誌波斯輝煌歷史的地標,沒有想到成為傀儡帝制的落幕背景。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">美國人經常問,為何中東國家如此敵視自己。其實,自己鑄成的孽,誰人能饒?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">(</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">三個廣場的故事,二<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-34382924478041394092013-01-08T00:26:00.000-08:002013-01-08T06:39:07.074-08:00燈滅、人散、戲落幕<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiou_tBoh1NAUfkLqTIZEuwSaAjEyE2NOqplCD9ZQ6bnH9F6mFagRe6BroCxByNmfglcnTU3mQW8aBRa6ZElVa4y0dt4qDNl14QMnTPX6y9WydOx0N09zG9LP0PviHVn6nSkw9dmOhx2RY/s1600/IMG_3834.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiou_tBoh1NAUfkLqTIZEuwSaAjEyE2NOqplCD9ZQ6bnH9F6mFagRe6BroCxByNmfglcnTU3mQW8aBRa6ZElVa4y0dt4qDNl14QMnTPX6y9WydOx0N09zG9LP0PviHVn6nSkw9dmOhx2RY/s320/IMG_3834.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p>(Casa Rosada, Buenos Aires, Argentina)</o:p></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">貝隆夫人只活了三十三年,短暫生命卻像電影,每一幕都是轟轟烈烈。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">因緣際會,自己也是在人生第三十三個年頭到訪阿根廷。夜幕低垂,走在五月廣場<span lang="EN-US">(</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Plaza de Mayo</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">)</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">之中,心想這位仍備受阿根廷人視為國母的人物,真的活出那份寧作飛灰、勿作浮塵的豪情,容不下一絲淡泊。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">而這個玫瑰宮<span lang="EN-US">(</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Casa Rosad</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">a)</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">的陽台,就好像特地為貝隆夫人而建的舞台,讓她震撼人心、牽引心靈,也見證了她的冒起與殞落。</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">序幕是在<span lang="EN-US">1945</span>年,貝隆夫人仍是</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Eva Duarte</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,一個由鄉村到布宜諾斯艾利斯討生活、慢慢往上爬成為演員及電台主持的女子,亦與副總統貝隆相戀不久。貝隆高舉討好工人及草根階層的政綱,聲勢日隆,結果被軍方軟禁並強迫辭去副總統職務。眼見情人身陷險境,<span lang="EN-US">Eva</span>不惜一切營救,決定冒險在</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">電台</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">號召支持者上街,利用群眾聲勢迫令軍方退讓。</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">勞動階層擔心貝隆一落台,意味著所有左傾政策都會推倒重來。</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">那一晚,支持者蜂擁擠進五月廣場中,</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Eva孤注一擲</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,走到玫瑰宮的陽台,以非凡的演說技巧,宣佈貝隆將參加總統大選,要求軍方立即放人</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">軍方最終無奈同意。那一夜徹底改寫了阿根廷的歷史,而她,只有二十六歲。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">貝隆勢如破竹,一年之後正式登上總統寶座,這位原本寂寂無名、被父親遺棄的私生女<span lang="EN-US">Eva</span>,也一躍成為第一夫人。在向選民道謝的祝捷會,她再度站在玫瑰宮的陽台,當然沒有像電影《貝隆夫人》中那樣唱著《</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Don’t Cry for Me Argentina</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">》</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,台下也沒有哲古華拉。她娓娓向群眾說,「</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">你們的苦楚,我</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">一一嘗</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">過;你們的貧困,我</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">親身經歷</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">過。貝隆</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">把</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">我</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">拯救了</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,也會</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">同樣</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">救</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">贖</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">你們。」</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">那一夜,三十五萬人同呼吸、同心跳、同歡呼,迎接新時代的來臨。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">誠然,如此種種在玫瑰宮發生,是有點吊詭的。一百多年前,前人選擇把這座大樓塗上胭脂般的粉紅色,是為了調和聯邦和統一兩派的分歧,因此把分別代表兩黨的紅色和白色混合。但貝隆所行的是赤裸裸的民粹政治,為了取悅藍領階層,製造貧與富之間的對立,兩極容不下中間,而貝隆夫人就正正是這種民粹主義最忠誠的執行者。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">但同時,相信沒有人會懷疑,貝隆夫人對低下階層的關顧是真摰的,對自身境遇有所感懷,自然</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">體會工人及貧苦大眾的艱苦生活;為</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">婦女送奶粉</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">、走<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">入</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">貧民區</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">、</span></span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">為窮人建學校和醫院</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">等舉動,或許有著政治計算,但阿根廷人更願意相信,貝隆夫人的種種童年回憶已成為永久的人生烙印,</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">扶貧濟弱</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">、悲憫孤寡對她來說,是最自然不過的人生選擇。</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">貝隆夫人註定是個讓人又愛又恨的人物,永遠成為舞台上的主角。</span></span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">可惜,世界上始終沒有退不下的舞台。<span lang="EN-US">1951</span>年,她的病情惡化,徹底被癌症擊倒,疲弱身軀再抵受不了國家之重與及政治之險。那一夜,她帶著倦容站到陽台上,黯然向群眾告別。那個晚上,五月廣場上依舊萬人空巷,興盡悲來,舉國同哀。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三個廣場的故事,一<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span><span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">小插曲:阿根廷人一直對《貝隆夫人》這部電影耿耿於懷,因為覺得劇本醜化了這位國母,電影更曾一度在阿根廷遭禁播。當年電影在阿根廷拍攝時遭受諸多阻撓,但唯獨在玫瑰宮那兩幕,主演的麥當娜親自致函當時的總統,要求在實地拍攝,並奇蹟地獲政府答允。或許因為阿根廷人仍緬懷那兩幕歷史場景,電影既要重塑當時情景,就把那激昂熱情在歷史現場當中淋漓盡致地展現出來。<span lang="EN-US">)</span></span></span></div>
陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-56233393254874522462012-12-26T12:29:00.000-08:002013-02-04T11:05:53.173-08:00歷史就如水輪轉<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7r0igmJUerQgKIrGr8IBJfUCAKgu0LKVaguTCg6gZM5tgG9OTe1TqM2vSeu-7SWB-SIV3U4i_HErfPx27AoSKhwToD138bQwTW6VVD07DEpaTqimnX-HWebLlGtaGNUnYDcEl4mnVho/s1600/IMG_6980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" eea="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn7r0igmJUerQgKIrGr8IBJfUCAKgu0LKVaguTCg6gZM5tgG9OTe1TqM2vSeu-7SWB-SIV3U4i_HErfPx27AoSKhwToD138bQwTW6VVD07DEpaTqimnX-HWebLlGtaGNUnYDcEl4mnVho/s320/IMG_6980.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Norias, Hama, Syria)</span></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哈馬市的河在流,水輪在轉,橫跨世紀。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">那是一個平靜的早上,陽光照在河上,水面閃爍發光。微風輕送,葉兒颯颯作響。哈馬市舊城區仍保留了中古世紀的特色,周圍環境寧靜而祥和。偌大水輪在河道上轉動,水輪旁邊設有石階,讓遊人可以近距離感受其轉動。木板咭吱咯吱作響,水被轉到高處,水滴飄拂形成水簾,陽光穿透在內,折射出一道斑駁彩虹,若穩若現。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">城中十七個轉動水輪,成為哈馬這個敍利亞中部城市的象徵。由於這裡地面高於彎曲流動的奧倫提斯河,河堤深而垂直,難以取水灌溉,因此早在四世紀,當時的人便在河道上興建水輪,利用水力推動巨輪,把水載高並帶到引水道,藉此灌溉附近農地,擴大耕種面積。這是個非常有智慧的設計,亦是人類比較早期的水利工程。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當然,單靠流水與水輪的智慧,未能為哈馬帶來平安,一切還看天時地利。水輪就好像預示了哈馬的命運<span lang="EN-US"> - </span>悲劇不斷循環,周而復始。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">哈馬的位置,正在阡陌之界,永遠處身在狹縫:劃一條橫線,敍利亞夾在東西方文明之間,十字軍東征不少戰場就在這片廣袤疆土;再劃一條縱軸線,哈馬處身大馬士革與阿勃頗兩個古代皇朝權力中心之間,難以獨善其身。也是如此,戰亂就如水輪轉,每隔一段時間就到臨這一帶。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">到了敍利亞宣布獨立,悲劇仍然循環不息,不斷重覆。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">自哈菲茲阿薩德<span lang="EN-US">(Hafez al-Assad</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">)</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">上台成為總統後,確立少數派阿拉維掌權的局面,引起多數的遜尼派不滿。伊斯蘭分子與政府不斷對峙,激進的穆斯林兄弟會多次在哈馬市引發騷亂,並在<span lang="EN-US">1980</span>年嘗試刺殺哈菲茲但不果,之後更在哈馬發動武裝起義。哈菲茲忍無可忍,在蘇聯的默許下,於<span lang="EN-US">1982</span>命令軍方大舉轟炸,把哈馬市炸個稀巴爛。當時處處斷垣殘壁,荒煙蔓草,大街小巷就是殺戮戰場,最終以萬計的人喪生,另外數之不盡的戰囚在獄中受折磨或被殺,大量的清真寺和古跡被摧毀。這就是著名的「哈馬大屠殺」,被修復的美麗舊城區當中,偶然還會找到當年破壞的痕跡,傷口隱隱仍在痛。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">當哈菲茲兒子巴沙爾上台時,敍利亞人曾期望統治會變得開明,政府會為當年的受難者平反。但這位在倫敦就讀醫學的新總統,並沒有完全受西方文明薰陶,決定延續鐵鋺統治,更遑論為當年的屠殺而平反。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">突尼西亞年青人把心一橫自焚,掀起席捲中東及北非的茉莉花革命的浪潮,敍利亞的反抗最為慘烈,弄得哀鴻遍野,生靈塗炭。世界大國既害怕影響區域的武力平衡,又擔憂自己會無意地陷入另一個軍事泥沼,因此只願意停留在「出口術」層面,心裡面還是投鼠忌器。大國的噤聲曾製造悲劇無數,三十年後的今天,歷史好像又再重演。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">幾年前在敍利亞到訪過的不少地方,今天已變成內戰現場,當然也包括了哈馬區域。不知那些水輪會否像歷史的巨輪一樣,在烽火中仍然循環再轉?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-43821262964085661002012-12-25T21:23:00.001-08:002012-12-25T23:04:28.459-08:00新疆有一個樂園<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbAjeaYCCwegwqqibeArmnQLF4lqlY8p5U9owDyzKdGCZevo0Pz46wdzt6QYIVReolpznxZnDl9FTc0AIhjfjzu9I5bsjL7IiI1CCcL9hzXE5evqXCTEL65Frti-2okkhQbdfpuDWgKg/s1600/IMG_0627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" eea="true" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAbAjeaYCCwegwqqibeArmnQLF4lqlY8p5U9owDyzKdGCZevo0Pz46wdzt6QYIVReolpznxZnDl9FTc0AIhjfjzu9I5bsjL7IiI1CCcL9hzXE5evqXCTEL65Frti-2okkhQbdfpuDWgKg/s320/IMG_0627.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p>(坎兒井,吐魯蕃,新疆)</o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">如果由我負責設計一所中學的國民教育課程,必定要求校方出錢出力,送學生到新疆。因為一個人只要走出嘉峪關,就會感受到在學校所接受多年的中國歷史教育,是多麼的以偏既全。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">中國實在太大了,邊陲地區與中原地帶的文化及國情有天淵之別,但邊疆的民族皇朝,或因中原強盛而臣服之,或因中原積弱而入侵,輾輾轉轉融入中國的文化歷史體系,同樣是中史不可或缺的一部分。在書本上我們只集中中原華夏的部分,以漢族人眼光去看邊疆,當然只能理解一半的中國。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">到了新疆,所有事都要以新角度對待。無情的大地顯示絕對的荒蕪,極端得讓人喘不過氣,大巴在沙漠中緩緩前進,車輪轉動掀起一條長長風沙尾巴,過了一個荒山,另一個又緊接出現,殘酷環境令這裡的文化與「生存」這命題環環緊扣,甚麼精緻文化、吟詩作對甚至是傷春悲秋的情懷都只能靠邊站。這是真正單純為了活命的生存模式,沒有順意不順意、理想不理想可言,人生回歸到原始線上。</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">以這個視野觀之,就能明白新疆坎兒井的驚人之處。吐魯蕃盤地極度乾旱,但僅數十里外有高山儲積大量雪水,難題是,如何把水穿過陡峭山坡送到沙漠?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">由於地型限制,興建運水管道非常困難,他們因此想出更厲害的方法 <span lang="EN-US">–</span>在山坡上往地下鑿,開挖一個又一個近乎垂直的井<span lang="EN-US">(</span>最深的可達九十米<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,尋找藏在山中的水源,然後依地勢在豎井底打造暗渠,把豎井連接起來,建立一個地下河流網絡,把水引到沙漠盤地,再送到地面民居及農田,以作人畜及灌溉之用。 <span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">這項浩瀚的工程,令人可以在沙漠中建立綠洲,在人類歷史上也具重要意義。</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">吐魯蕃是絲綢之路上重要的中途站,因為坎兒井確保了穩定的水源,令到一隊隊駱駝商隊可以及時在中途補給,以應付穿過塔克拉馬干沙漠<span lang="EN-US">(</span>塔克拉馬干的當地語譯正是「進去了便不能出來」<span lang="EN-US">)</span>的漫長旅程。沒有這個荒漠中的綠洲,古代不少長途商貿和文化交流無從說起。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">也是明白了這些歷史脈絡,再見到掛在遺址門口上「坎兒井樂園歡迎你」這個招牌,便深知不妙。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">不得不佩服內地人<span lang="EN-US">(</span>漢人?<span lang="EN-US">)</span>的智慧,可以把最厲害的歷史遺跡,用圍欄重重包圍,然後在裡面放一些風馬牛不相及的裝置擺設,憑空捏造一些所謂「旅遊資源」,結果將遺跡降格至俗不可耐的遊樂園。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-22953340250762176122012-12-23T21:58:00.001-08:002012-12-24T03:52:37.608-08:00曲水有情<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqycjggaI_6uQneZq0x6giHROqakPc1ccKHkFh5wBnODdK6wUrNCyWzHLt3s-uUR_xY456USwmxseIvmx4doAuvka0BZnTSZTt44qbGs-llzIKuWOoGWY3lQ5sk0proXCnACZHuU-9_Kk/s1600/IMG_9918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" eea="true" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqycjggaI_6uQneZq0x6giHROqakPc1ccKHkFh5wBnODdK6wUrNCyWzHLt3s-uUR_xY456USwmxseIvmx4doAuvka0BZnTSZTt44qbGs-llzIKuWOoGWY3lQ5sk0proXCnACZHuU-9_Kk/s320/IMG_9918.JPG" width="213" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(Falaj, Oman)</span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">生活的道理其實很簡單,要麼克服困難,要麼被困難擊倒。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">置身於寸草不生、風沙撲面的荒漠之中,「活命」這個主題注定蓋過一切,所謂生活,只能以最純粹的狀態呈現,蒼茫境地只容得下堅強與孤寂,容不下脆弱與退縮。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">水是生命之源,因此任何大文明都是孕育自河流。尋找水源,是人類歷史的大科題。認命的,人會遷就大環境,因此古來就有逐水草而居。但在荒漠之中,何處是綠洲?那裡見甘泉?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">或許環境越極端,真的更能迸發大智慧。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">二千多年前,為了克服水源問題,居住在阿拉伯半島阿曼的民族進行了史無空前的大建設。他們在荒漠之中興建一條又一條的輸水道<span lang="EN-US">(falaj)</span>。透過精準的設計,這些水道不用機器扶助,只是利用地勢高低的落差,把遠方高山的水穿越數十公里引進荒漠,再透過細密輸水網,把水引到不同角落。這些水道有不同設計,大部份藏在地下以減少蒸發,有部份則是外露,供人及牲畜飲用,進入村內水道則是縱橫交錯。這個龐大而細緻的輸水網絡,令阿曼人早在二千多年前,就把與大自然角力的形勢扭轉,不再需要「望天打卦」,單靠下雨而來的水過活。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">有了水,人就可以聚居,社群因此出現。資源需要小心管理,否則就會出現經濟學者所云的「公地悲劇」<span lang="EN-US">(tragedy of the commons)</span> 。其實古代人早就明白這道理,因此,他們竭力想出共同管理輸水網的制度,例如這些水道有私人及公家之分,公共的需要由整村人共同管理及維修,他們甚至創出「股分制度」,每個農田主人都是「持份者」,每年要繳納資金,集資聘請維修人員,確保水道不會失修;每個區域都會根據土地面積獲得一定供水配額,配額可以買賣,由專業的「水計員」執行;為確保各農主不會盲目爭奪水資源引起糾紛,他們甚至編製輸水更表,利用大石作「開關掣」堵塞水道,把水在特定時段依序輸到不同地域。自伊斯蘭教植根中東,後來的水道設計也一定確保水流經回教寺,以體現他們對宗教的追求。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">到了今天,大部份古色古香的舊水道被水泥加固了,有點面目全非,但水依舊在流,現代人或多或少仍能撫今追昔,感受蜿蜒水道如何為沙漠中的人帶來活命機會,也促成了社群網絡的出現, 使荒漠生存再不是你爭我奪的求生遊戲,更能孕育出共生共存共患難的情誼。</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三個流水的故事,一<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-69653309840715308422012-12-10T01:48:00.001-08:002012-12-11T03:04:23.402-08:00燃油補貼盜竊案<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJwf8Rq5Xsfx__U2fPgPN3oU6SUT6iQ9Bi0m3exVZKN2HSkyPz2MopKia0cfpGiSQf0OmXMNALvKrZyNTYZiaGvXlt395-JZt9EtmeWB04q8r6tasrjJNW7aXqRow1xx3o6qObLYw8Vh4/s1600/Lagos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJwf8Rq5Xsfx__U2fPgPN3oU6SUT6iQ9Bi0m3exVZKN2HSkyPz2MopKia0cfpGiSQf0OmXMNALvKrZyNTYZiaGvXlt395-JZt9EtmeWB04q8r6tasrjJNW7aXqRow1xx3o6qObLYw8Vh4/s320/Lagos.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">那時身處尼日利亞經濟首府拉哥斯<span lang="EN-US">(</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Lagos)</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,託旅館召了輛的士,載我到內陸機場向北部進發。那個的士司機果然「不負所望」,侃侃而談,問我西非旅途中的遊歷觀察,也不斷講述自己環遊世界的「威水史」。他抱怨外人對西非有太多偏見,尼日利亞絕對值得遊客一來。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">我問現時生活苦嗎?他說還過得去,只是國家人口太多,難以發展,所有人都跑往拉哥斯討生活,治安自然難以維持。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">當然,他並沒有明言的,是尼日利亞貪腐嚴重,一般百姓生活困苦。我經陸路由貝寧入境,晚上途經拉哥斯邊陲地區,平房簡陋兼日久失修,居民寧以爉燭照明也不開電燈,據說除了大城市以外居住環境都是這個樣子,而尼日利亞人均每天收入只有兩美元,在非洲榜末徘徊。那天晚上入境時,也吃過了不少苦頭,感覺是所有擁有權力的人員,都會扭盡六壬,以各種方法從普通人身上搾取好處,如同吸血蟲一樣。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">被邊境站崗人員「攔途截劫」當然令人氣憤,但相對尼日利亞整個國家面對的另一種猖獗盜竊行為,這些只算是小兒科。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">尼日利亞是非洲的最大產油國,貢獻了國家絕大部分的外匯。可是國內沒有足夠煉油設施,因此要大量輸入成品油以應付國內的能源需要。為了減低對民生影響及經濟發展,政府一向提供燃油補貼,以公帑津貼入口石油以降低價格。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">龐大的盜竊案與官商勾結,就由這燃油補貼開始。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">不少油商賄賂政府官員,以開水填滿油缸,然後獲官員確認這是石油,從中騙取巨額政府補貼。有些「水為財」致富的油商更得寸進尺,在外地購置煉油設備,把國內原油偷運到自己的煉油廠,經提煉後再以高價輸入尼日利亞,賺取豐厚利潤。透過這些技倆,估計竊油集團在過去兩年就把<span lang="EN-US">60</span>億美元袋袋平安。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">這是明目張膽地盜竊國家財富,對於一個石油出口國,居然要輸入七成成品油供內需,而普羅百姓居然無法享受任何石油帶來的財富,這是何等諷刺?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">這是一個死結,一般百姓心知肚明,燃油補貼養肥貪腐集團,但這亦是唯一途徑讓普通人享受石油業帶來的丁點好處,而貪腐集團根深柢固,政府有多大決心亦難以扭轉局面。政府嘗試大幅撤減燃油補貼,並承諾把省回的錢放在基建及社會投資,但這卻直接刺激交通及食品價格,一般百姓利益立即受損,結果引發國內史無前例的大罷工。況且市民已經不再信任政府,認為省回的錢最終還是會被貪官予取予携。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-26652642506599756712012-12-08T08:10:00.002-08:002012-12-08T08:18:43.606-08:00西乃抄本羅生門<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd1n21yhcMz7zZe2kuGjFb_pr6PWpeb64kG9kBPoLSorAzbDkBQuybTUkpMKOUx-eNC4svqDc3xZTShT_zMz_KBE5tnTVnwGZEev7gyg0FAYt0sap1elgKw8kSNsF_ZZ90V3qEHAQzfZQ/s1600/IMG_1078.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" nea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd1n21yhcMz7zZe2kuGjFb_pr6PWpeb64kG9kBPoLSorAzbDkBQuybTUkpMKOUx-eNC4svqDc3xZTShT_zMz_KBE5tnTVnwGZEev7gyg0FAYt0sap1elgKw8kSNsF_ZZ90V3qEHAQzfZQ/s320/IMG_1078.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> (Saint Katherine Monastery, Mount Sinai, Egypt)</span></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">從遠處看,聖凱瑟琳修道院<span style="font-family: Arial;">(Saint Kathering Monastery)</span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">真的像個隱世秘境,附近只見光秃峰巒,修道院被荒漠重重包圍,完全與世隔絕。也許正是因為這份荒涼,令修道院避過一千七百多年的戰火與橫禍,屹立至今。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">修道院被石頭砌成的高牆包圍,沒有設置大門,只靠兩道小木門作為出入口,修士就在裡面隔絕於世間紛擾,靜靜潛修。現時修道院每天只開放數小時,遊人與來自世界各地的朝聖者通常在登上西乃山看日出後,就會徐徐下山,走到修道院等候,當小門一開,便慢慢魚貫入內參觀。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">修道院對信徒來說,是極為神聖之地:出埃及記中有不少重要章節被認定是在這個山頭發生<span lang="EN-US">(</span>例如上帝使者在火焰荊棘中現身,把帶領猶太人走出埃及、朝耶路撒冷出發的重任交託給摩西<span lang="EN-US">)</span>;同時,這裡所收藏的手抄古本聖經數量僅次於梵蒂岡,宗教地位崇高。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">《西乃抄本<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">》</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Codex Sinaiticus)</span></span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">是修道院中最重要的珍藏,比起梵蒂岡所收藏的聖經抄本還要古老。約一千七百年前,抄經者用希臘文書寫聖經在羊皮紙上,然後組合成書,抄本上的新約聖經相信是世界上最早出現的版本。。可惜這個人類宗教歷史上最重要的瑰寶,現時其實主要散落在德國、英國及俄羅斯三地,修道院收藏的只有寥寥十數頁。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">抄本如何流落歐洲,至今仍人言言殊。疑犯是個德國人,名叫蒂申多夫<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(Constantin Tischendorf)</span></span>。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">蒂申多夫是個大學講師,對聖經充滿狂熱,一個人遊歷歐洲與中東,就是為了搜集散落世界各地的聖經抄本。據提申多夫自己描述,當他在<span lang="EN-US">1844</span>年孑然到達聖凱瑟琳修道院,剛巧碰到修士正在燃燒一些皮紙來取暖,乍看之下大吃一驚,皮紙上竟有舊約經文。他立即從火中搶救抄本,修士還嗤之以鼻指剛才已燒了兩簍皮紙。蒂申多夫向修道院拿走部份抄本到德國作研究之用,但其心志仍在研究整部《西乃抄本》。<span lang="EN-US">1859</span>年,蒂申多夫成功遊說俄國沙皇,借沙皇之名向修道院要求送贈大部份抄本,並獲大主教接納。<span lang="EN-US">(1933</span>年,史太林以賤價把大部份抄本賣給大英博物館,那已是後話<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">但修道院中的僧侶至今仍憤憤不平,指蒂申多夫是想為自己的盜竊罪行開脫才捏造事實,其實當時修士並沒有燒抄本,而是蒂申多夫把他灌醉,再把抄本偷走。另外,當年修道院只是承諾讓沙皇借閱抄本,絕無送贈之意,當年蒂申多夫的「借據」仍被留在修道院內,作為盜竊「罪証」。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">修道院雖然擁有當年的「借據」,但歷史學家卻在俄羅斯歷史檔案那裡找到修道院主教同意將抄本贈與沙皇的協議。這椿歷史上的羅生門,誰是誰非至今已無法說清,幸好有心人把放置在世界各地的抄本製成電腦影像,《西乃抄本》才得以超越地域限制,在虛擬世界中重新被「組合成書」。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三個盜竊的故事,二<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-60389357741793449902012-12-05T10:12:00.003-08:002012-12-05T10:41:29.397-08:00大英贓物館<div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt; text-align: center;">
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<span style="mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(<span lang="EN-US">Hoa Hakanana, British Museum, UK)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">試想想,世界上那裡有大盜可以明目張膽拿你東西,然後大條道理將贓物據為己有,拒絕歸還?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">除了汪洋大盜,還有大英帝國。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">當年大英帝國勢力伸展到全球,不少探險家及考古學家也借殖民統治之便,走遍全世界探尋古蹟,打著「保育」旗幟,實質卻把無數珍貴人類寶藏或偷或搶運到倫敦,大英博物館也因而堪稱「賊竇」。現時不少「被盜」國家也要求博物館歸還重要文物,但館方態度非常堅定,認為那裡的專家比起所有人更懂得保存文物,為了世界人類文明的延續,博物館唯有「當仁不讓」,繼續負起重任。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">巨大的摩艾石像<span lang="EN-US">Hoa Hakanana</span>棲身在<span lang="EN-US">24</span>號展館,如何看也覺得格格不入。石像是復活島的守護神,理應背向大海,面向大地,現時卻被困室內,如池中蛟龍。<span lang="EN-US">1868</span>年,探險船到達復活島,並把龐大沉重的石像從</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Orongo</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">搬走<span lang="EN-US">(</span>當時據說用了三百名水手及二百名當地居民,才可以把石像搬到船上<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,就此石像就離開故地,流落異鄉。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">那麼,復活島有沒有要求英國歸還這位「被收藏的朋友」<span lang="EN-US">(Hoa Hakanana</span>的意譯<span lang="EN-US">)</span>?一次在島上的隨意搭訕,讓我遇上奇人,也知道多一點背後的故事。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">在歸途中碰上一名大叔,他一身斑駁衣裳,一點也不起眼,正常人在街上與他碰面,大概會點下頭、問候一下,然後已經不知該說甚麼。閒聊一會卻發現,原來他是有名的考古學家</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Sergio Rapu</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">。他用了大半生致力修復石像原貌,把倒臥的亂石像群重新豎立,重現昔日風彩。他的多年宿願,是要尋找復活島所有失落的故事及歷史,為摩艾石像重新注入生命。他走遍全球,就是為了尋求其他國家的捐款進行考古及修復工作。最終,他獲得日本的資助<span lang="EN-US">(而</span>條件是要把<span lang="EN-US">Tongariki</span>中最細的石像運到日本展覽<span lang="EN-US">)</span>,慢慢用了十多年時間,將東倒西歪的石像逐個豎起,成就今天的面貌。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">他也是首位考古學者發現石像其實有眼晴,可惜他們的眼晴被敵對部族的人肆意拿走,石像因此變成「無眼睇」。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">Sergio</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">曾經做過復活島的「特首」,現在更經營旅館,開辦特色遊覽團。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">他們曾否要求英國把<span lang="EN-US">Hoa Hakanana</span>送返復活島?原來他們很早便跟博物館交涉,得到的回覆當然是陳腔濫調,大意是他們不想這重要文物被疏忽管理遭受破壞,因此要求復活島興建一間比較像樣的博物館,證明他們有能力保存及處理古蹟。他們依照意見,在八十年代努力籌備興建比較有規模的博物館,並於<span lang="EN-US">1989</span>年落成運作至今,可惜四分一世紀以後,英國意見接受,態度照舊,事件了無寸進。</span><br />
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三個盜竊的故事,一<span lang="EN-US">)</span></span></b></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-76059331103488744342012-11-29T09:47:00.001-08:002012-11-29T18:43:58.720-08:00柏林蒼穹下<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVv3udA93w6aWD6yIqjUQx3bgSgIAAcfwHq6zPQvXtLCx-lEGyBTua70iLlnWly36eK8KN7Gfd7mGAmd_sq9wKzPRhtOAYM7q5x0WjtSgIlAuJ6ymo0_p0BMcXpSVlmpaSd9rut8ksgr8/s1600/IMG_5814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVv3udA93w6aWD6yIqjUQx3bgSgIAAcfwHq6zPQvXtLCx-lEGyBTua70iLlnWly36eK8KN7Gfd7mGAmd_sq9wKzPRhtOAYM7q5x0WjtSgIlAuJ6ymo0_p0BMcXpSVlmpaSd9rut8ksgr8/s320/IMG_5814.JPG" tea="true" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">(Berlin Wall, Berlin, Germany)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">記得</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">《柏林蒼穹下》</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">嗎?那個天使站在</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">勝利女神青銅雕</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">像上,</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">俯</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">視人間,守望柏林這個都市。天使收起憐憫,傾聽每個靈魂低訴,黑白的畫面,容不下一點色彩。柏林街角暮氣沉沉,了無生氣;途人絡繹,個個卻</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">滿懷愁</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">緒。天使走到轉角處,那道</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">鋼筋</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">水泥築成的高牆又會無聲出現,彷彿要提醒我們,所有柏林人心中都有一道難以癒合的歷史傷痕。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">當我踏足柏林這個城市,圍牆早已不在,但那份蒼茫,總是揮之不去。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">厚厚高牆,當年殘暴地割開一個城市,家人、親戚、朋友自此不能再相見。二次世界大戰以後,德國被美、蘇分管,東德精英不斷往西方跑,直至東德共產政府認為忍無可忍,便在一夜之間在市中心豎起四米高牆,把德國分成兩邊。不少人在<span lang="EN-US">1961</span>年<span lang="EN-US">8</span>月<span lang="EN-US">13</span>日一覺醒來,發現鐡絲網變成堅實圍牆,「鐡幕」不再只是想像,而是實實在在呈現眼前。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">若果可以像那個天使站在</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">勝利女神雕</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">像上</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">俯瞰柏林</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,會看到兩個截然不同的世界:一邊熙來攘往、繁華熱鬧;一邊則市容破落、</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">滿目瘡痍</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">。只有站在那個高度,才能領悟充滿諷刺</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">的歷史</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">以及悲</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">喜</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">交集的人</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">生。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">站在世人的高度,圍牆卻是血跡斑斑。那短短一百米寬的隔離區,東德軍方佈下天羅地網,誓要阻止任何人投奔西方。電網、射擊裝置、地雷等一一俱備,加上裝甲車和牽著狼狗的士兵不斷巡邏,邊境軍人一見有人逃亡,便毫不猶豫開槍,圍牆之下亡魂不絕。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">*<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>*<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>*<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">時間不早 時間不早</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"> / </span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">從前你說過這邊風光多美好</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"> / </span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">誰來告訴我怎麼修好當我孤身走過馬路</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"> / </span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">誰在背後對著我講 你好」</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三個邊界的故事,三<span lang="EN-US">)</span></span></b></div>
陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-24443366644576120942012-11-22T19:19:00.002-08:002012-11-23T06:30:07.888-08:00分隔天堂與地獄的線<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw71XsbKS0IOftl_VKLlc29Mx44iogHG1Ws-L4_FAvB6Mw3t34CPg-14dY5qbX37vlrspFqo5QsA6n2IohdYzRLuplG6v-OoA9ZqF-K59yY1k3JgXjPobSLCzesbehkJ4A5leg8aocffk/s1600/IMG_6167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw71XsbKS0IOftl_VKLlc29Mx44iogHG1Ws-L4_FAvB6Mw3t34CPg-14dY5qbX37vlrspFqo5QsA6n2IohdYzRLuplG6v-OoA9ZqF-K59yY1k3JgXjPobSLCzesbehkJ4A5leg8aocffk/s320/IMG_6167.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">相比起由南韓那裡出發,由北韓開城出發到訪板門店,除了路上氣氛份外肅殺,最深刻的是導遊在不同名字之前加上的形容詞,例如「邪惡的美帝主義」、「偉大的太陽金日成領袖」等等。以這種「朝鮮</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">style</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">」敍述六十多年前的韓戰,正邪對立,壁壘分明,但就算詞彙再豐富,同行內地團友全部見識過文革時的「政治洗腦」,當然只會一笑置之。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">況且,當年中國也算是「被韓戰」,在「抗美援朝」號召之下,一批批中國志願軍經丹東進入朝鮮,面對敵方精銳武器,基本上與送死無異,十八萬人殉葬異鄉。就算到了今天,那會有人真心祝賀這個「朝鮮民族的勝利」?<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">事實上,韓戰之中孰是孰非,沒有人可以說得清。在冷戰大政治格局之下,韓戰衝突兩方或多或少只是棋子。當時金日成獲蘇聯默許,決定冒進突襲南方,希望一舉完成統一國家大業,就在北韓軍隊橫過三八線那一刻,朝鮮半島局勢已經覆水難收。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">美國為首的聯合國軍隊擁有先進軍備,令朝鮮及中國軍隊死傷慘重,但地面戰卻又佔不了上風,雙方在三八線僵持不下,慢慢知道再打下去只會兩敗俱傷。</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">板門店</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">本是名不經傳窮鄉僻壤,地名源自一間由</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">木板搭成的雜貨店</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,卻因為韓戰和談最後遷到在這裡進行,就變成了重要的歷史現場。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">195</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">3</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">年</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">7</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">月</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,雙方簽定停戰協議,以三八線為基礎建立非軍事區,從此把朝鮮半島割成兩邊。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三八線是重要軍事區,除了板門店以外,所有區域不向外開放。導遊也千叮萬囑,看守板門店的軍人高度戒備,見到遊人一有異動,會毫不猶豫立即開槍。到了共同警衞區,七幢木房平</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">排</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">座落</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">在邊界上,</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">白色的歸北韓管理,藍色的歸南韓,中間的主要會場,在現時仍是南北之間磋商會面的重要場地,</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">屋中</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">的</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">長桌</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">剛好放在三八線上</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,會談時南北韓</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">代表</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">坐在兩邊</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,楚河漢界。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">在木屋之間有一條五厘米高的水泥線,標誌著南北韓的分</span><span lang="ZH-HK" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-language: ZH-HK; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">界</span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">,三八線變成一條實實在在的線,呈現在眼前。直至今天,一方仍受著極權制度煎熬,普羅百姓擁抱「主體思想」及領袖絕對權威,卻連基本溫飽都成問題;只是跨出一條線,另一方卻在數十年間創造了不少經濟奇蹟,成為亞洲四小龍,以及走過高壓時代迎來了民主政治。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">在地面的這一條線,看似平平無奇,卻是一道花多少心血亦難以縫合的歷史鴻溝及傷痕,線的兩邊仍是「這麼近,那麼遠」。<span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">(</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-fareast;">三個邊界的故事,二<span lang="EN-US">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-27826045178828553922012-11-19T00:23:00.000-08:002012-11-19T10:29:02.792-08:00鉛筆線下的恨<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyb7vgLXxYQYT3WHP0t7bE1-DCqqwmMYGw9DONSguLg32PgBKtTcpWg9aIoYN8s4EQDJIBM9SEvVtAW_Td_zaKdRVdk-52pe2Qcs5aeQzbMF870DujYMhfRB_7_jWu7QuwcQFn84X2_mM/s1600/IMG_8115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyb7vgLXxYQYT3WHP0t7bE1-DCqqwmMYGw9DONSguLg32PgBKtTcpWg9aIoYN8s4EQDJIBM9SEvVtAW_Td_zaKdRVdk-52pe2Qcs5aeQzbMF870DujYMhfRB_7_jWu7QuwcQFn84X2_mM/s320/IMG_8115.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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(The Green Line, Cyprus)</div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">在地圖上劃一條線,看似輕而易舉,卻足以改寫歷史。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">那是</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1964</span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">年,在塞浦路斯。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">塞浦路斯這地中海小島美麗如畫,本想與世無爭,奈何處身歐、亞、非三大洲之間,難以抽身於地沿政治。基於歷史原因,塞浦路斯分別由土耳其裔及希臘裔人進駐,兩族人相處時有矛盾,但大致無礙,可惜最後被無情地捲入國際政治角力,小島被活生生地撕成兩邊。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">塞浦路斯在</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1960</span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">年獨立以後,希裔領袖竭力把小島投向希臘懷抱,土裔一方卻極力阻止,武裝衝突及恐怖襲擊無日無之。英國作為前宗主國嘗試出面調停,雙方在</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1964</span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">年決定停火,當時派駐當地的維和部隊將領</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Peter Young</span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">拿起綠色鉛筆在塞浦路斯地圖上一揮,畫下一條綠色線,成為長二百多公里的軍事緩衝區。</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">這個被稱為「綠線」的緩衝區卻無助衝突終止,一方遇襲後必然報復,以牙還牙的心態令內戰升級,直至希裔遊擊組織發動政變,土耳其立即揮軍從北部攻島,南北雙方對峙不下。最後聯合國介入,雙方在</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1974</span></span><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">年簽定停戰協議,把「綠線」定為停火區,自此隔絕南北之間任何交往。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">這條「綠線」貫穿塞浦路斯,把島一分為二,亦分隔了不少家庭。為了自身安全,住在北方的希裔及南方的土裔居民往相反方向遷離,一去就是幾十年,自此與故地相隔,顛沛流離。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">那條地圖上的線,究竟是一個甚麼概念?首都尼科西亞位處南北交界,緩衝線把這個圓形城市分成兩個半圓形。綠線之中,只見頹垣敗瓦,處處凋零,建築破爛不堪,周圍了無人煙,只有流浪小貓大模廝樣遊走,曾經繁華的區域,因為一場戰爭、一條停火線,落得今天荒蕪境地。在綠線外,南北兩方過著不同生活;在綠線內,時間卻彷彿被凝住,一切被定格在四十年前。周圍的鐵絲網、暸望塔、軍事設施都令遊人渾身不自在,當然,還有那個標示軍事禁區的警示牌,提醒所有人這裡就是烽火大地。</span><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">(</span></span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: '新細明體','serif'; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-fareast;">三個邊界的故事,一</span></b><b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span lang="EN-US" style="mso-fareast-font-family: 新細明體; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">)<o:p></o:p></span></span></b></div>
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-76546633878101199062012-11-18T12:10:00.001-08:002012-11-18T12:10:16.024-08:00相信雪兒也諒解<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30EASqX_p2Els-M1q5d-DILLo4QYjkLxkHd1FDRnEkAltvHgWKBPbqoJmZQ-J-LisErAMPTEJrY-dInX_NDFrwaLBfV1GXH0rQfdUgY1UdZl3LLd846h_K-y6f-OEOdeqCEITfEFEwwU/s1600/IMG_1939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30EASqX_p2Els-M1q5d-DILLo4QYjkLxkHd1FDRnEkAltvHgWKBPbqoJmZQ-J-LisErAMPTEJrY-dInX_NDFrwaLBfV1GXH0rQfdUgY1UdZl3LLd846h_K-y6f-OEOdeqCEITfEFEwwU/s320/IMG_1939.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
(Belgian Comic Strip Museum, Brussels, Belgium)<br />
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年輕時已迷上了《丁丁歷險記》。當時定期追看在亞視國際台播放的動畫(當時應該還被譯作「天天」),跟隨丁丁與愛犬雪兒上山下海,踏遍世界各大洲,感覺就好像環遊世界一樣。簡單清晰的線條,沒有現代動畫的修飾,反而給人無限想像空間,也為小伙子種下渴望環遊世界的種子。<br />
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漫畫風靡全球,丁丁之父Herge也因此成為比利時重要人物,引得不少「丁迷」特地到布魯塞爾的比利時漫畫中心及近郊Herge博物館朝聖。重溫Herge的生命足跡,卻會發現一切再不像漫畫那樣單純簡單,而是充滿矛盾。<br />
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Herge從不諱言,自己的童年極度平凡。而就算丁丁漫畫變得炙手可熱時,他都從未試過出門去旅遊 - 丁丁就好像是他的替身,替他走遍世界每一角落。<br />
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在丁丁誕生後首十年,雪兒是丁丁唯一同伴。牠驍勇善戰,機靈聰敏,也經常以表情表達對世事取態與喜怒哀樂,亦會有「蝦碌」及大意失手時,性格立體得像人一樣。Herge更會以「說話泡泡」讓這隻機靈犬以語言表達想法。<br />
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在這段期間,Herge從不忌諱透過作品反映他對政治的關注及想法,例如丁丁對付的壞人,往往都帶濃烈法西斯主義色彩。丁丁漫畫也漸受歡迎,在刊登丁丁的日子, Le Vingtième Siècle的銷量會比平日多十倍。<br />
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但二次大戰卻改變了一切。<br />
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當德軍攻打比利時之際,Herge逃亡到法國;當比利時淪陷時,礙於生活壓力,他回到布魯塞爾,繼續繪畫丁丁謀生。由於舊有報刊被取締,他決定在已成為納粹喉舌但發行量龐大的Le Soir發表作品。這個決定,至今仍備受非議。<br />
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為免被捲入政治旋渦,Herge一改作品風格,故事變成單純的冒險,與現實世界完全割離。因此,在戰後第一個作品,他直截了當安排丁丁坐船離開歐洲,然後流落撒哈拉沙漠,時間彷彿就此凝住,畫格容不下任何二次大戰蹤跡。當然,也由於未能以現實取材,丁丁這數年的歷險變得天馬行空,加上戰時紙張匱乏,他需要以最精鍊方法及最少的畫格交代故事,因此,在戰時那三部作品至今仍被公認為最有趣及精彩。<br />
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雪兒的角色也隨之而改變。作者在這段時間為漫畫創造了不少新的人物,最經典的當然是經常酗酒醉醺醺的Haddock船長。從此,Herge就借船長的口對世情冷嘲熱諷,雪兒從此不發一言,亦不再是丁丁唯一同伴,失去了原本風采。當然,也是Haddock出現之後,雪兒才會喝威士忌而酒醉惹禍。<br />
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儘管Herge現時是布魯塞爾的標誌之一,但至今仍有比利時人未能原諒他為納粹報刊提供作品,甚至禁止子女讀《丁丁歷險記》。Herge多番解釋,他既不親納粹德國也不親英法,只想專心創作,丁丁應該超越政治。當然,相信連雪兒也會諒解,很多事都是身不由己的,畢竟戰爭扭轉了所有人的命運,包括丁丁之父。<br />
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<strong>(</strong><strong>三個狗的故事,三)</strong>陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8466103563835651191.post-43017385808512834152012-11-18T12:08:00.002-08:002012-11-18T12:08:03.644-08:00雪犬<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWXEqRuprD7p2JYM8cNgfrGNhrINl9NBcTn1P3QOK6PDIHlb95hBWUu194b19hCg_9L8oW5lO-DrFxhKvEVU5HWIunZKmmqjV64Y6qH2Vk9VHYejX7QKyKyfv8s7Z2f6SalWhjPquXiSY/s1600/IMG_5596.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" rea="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWXEqRuprD7p2JYM8cNgfrGNhrINl9NBcTn1P3QOK6PDIHlb95hBWUu194b19hCg_9L8oW5lO-DrFxhKvEVU5HWIunZKmmqjV64Y6qH2Vk9VHYejX7QKyKyfv8s7Z2f6SalWhjPquXiSY/s320/IMG_5596.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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(Sled dogs, Svalbard, Norway)</div>
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人與土地之間,一直愛恨交纏。<br />
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在漫天風雪、寸草不生的極北之地,為了生存,人要用盡一切方法與大自然角力;當遇到困難、身陷險境時,往往也沒有人在旁協助,只能獨力應對。<br />
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也是在如斯無情的環境中,人類與狗發展出一種獨有的微妙關係。我是到訪位於北極圈中的挪威斯瓦爾巴群島(Svalbard)後,才能近距離見識人犬之間那種密不可分、休戚與共的毗連。<br />
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兩個來自丹麥的嚮導,各自領著由十隻雪犬拖行的雪橇,在雪地上奔馳。嚮導一聲令下,雪橇便像一支箭向前衝,他們以哨音作口令,配合拉扯繩帶,控制狗群的快慢及方向。<br />
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雪無情地撲打面頰,烈風颯颯作響,黑天摸地,人不知自己身在何方、朝向那裡,偶而會隱約見到遠方雪鹿的暗影,但更要時刻提防北極熊可能忽然來襲 (因此嚮導都會帶備長槍以策萬一)。天地就像被黑暗完全吞噬,那是一種難以形容的無力感。<br />
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在漆黑中,雪犬卻能夠奮力前進、冒雪奔馳。雪犬忠心耿耿,無懼嚴寒環境,不怕冰原凹凸起伏,更可透過腳部感受冰面厚道,以繞過薄冰避開危險。這些都是在冰原上重要的求生技能,沒有雪犬,人根本難以生存。在冰封大地之上,人與狗都把生命交託給對方,雙方就這樣建立起一種相依為命的宿命。<br />
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經過兩小時探索冰洞的歷險,最後一站是來到雪犬的休息居所。這裡有大約一百隻雪犬,每隻狗都有名字,亦獲分配一所刻有其名字的狗屋,讓牠們可以安心棲身,不需餐風宿露。嚮導可以準確認得每一隻狗,就好像自己的兒女一樣。進入圍欄內,壯犬幼犬都會非常熱情地跟人玩耍,甚至是爬在蹲下的遊人肩膀上。吠聲此起彼落,掩過亂颯風雪,淒冷冰原也變得熱鬧溫暖起來。<br />
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極北生活無比刻苦,卻孕育出人與狗之間獨有的友誼,藉以克服寒冬。<br />
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<strong>(</strong><strong>三個狗的故事,二)</strong><br />
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陳智遠http://www.blogger.com/profile/09416646143631298196noreply@blogger.com0